FAQ

Titan Laboratories is a leading manufacturer, and we sell only through professional distributors.  Contact us and we’ll be glad to tell you where your nearest distributor is located. A lot of our more than 700 distributors worldwide have websites for your convenience. If you know of a supplier that you think should carry our products, please let us know.

Our acclaimed products can be purchased from one of over 800 professional distributors worldwide. Contact us and we’ll refer you to the best distributor to meet your needs.

Earth Friendly Technology is a certification that Glass Gleam-4 is a green product according to industry standards. This way you and your customers have assurance that it contains no ammonia or other harmful ingredients, is packaged and shipped in accordance with green standards, and that our manufacturing process uses recycling in our efforts to reduce our carbon footprint. While GG-3 isn’t certified, you can be sure it meets the same standards, especially when you consider that GG-3 is even more concentrated so you don’t have to pay to ship water to you that you can simply add on the job.  We’re working on getting LEED certified too, but in the meantime, LEED managers will often review a product that isn’t certified yet, and give it a waiver for the particular job.  If you need help with LEED certified jobs, contact us and our representative will be glad to handle the process for you.

The driving force behind your company’s reputation will be cleaner windows that stay cleaner a long time. So does that mean you’ll have less work? No, on the contrary; if you’re cleaning an account once a month, you can now move them to once every other month, which frees you up for an entire month’s worth of new accounts, doubling your capacity for new business and profit. The other positive affect is that your customers will be overly satisfied, which means callbacks and referrals.
Since the introduction of Glass Gleam products, we’ve heard nothing but excellent things from our customers.  See some of our testimonials on the products pages or on the home page of this web site.

Window cleaning costs are almost all labor. The cost of dish soap is the same as using GG3 and GG4: just pennies per bucket. Since dish soap is designed for cleaning dishes, it doesn’t stay wetter on hot or windy days, leaves white streaks, doesn’t glide with less effort, and won’t make the glass hydrophobic so that dirt deposition is reduced. Dish soaps leave a residue that attracts new water molecules that trap and hold dirt. Our professional products leave a noticeably cleaner glass that stays cleaner longer, allowing you more time to add more accounts to your business. Nothing says “I’m a professional window cleaner” louder than a professional product that your customers will be begging for you to tell them what it is. Let your competition use dish soap and stand out in your field.

The list of ingredients that are harmful to aquatic life and are commonly found in dish soaps and other detergents include: Phosphates, Triclosan, Dioxane, Sodium Laurel Sulfate, Fragrance, Hormone Disrupters, Coal Tar Dyes, Chlorine, Formaldehyde, Ammonia, and Alcohol. Glass Gleam-4 contains none of these harmful ingredients and is green certified with Green Earth Technologies. We even use an all-natural, non-staining dye, and ship in super-concentrated form to even further reduce our footprint.

The unique formulas in both Glass Gleam-3 and Glass Gleam-4 contain no phosphates, ammonia, acids or any other harmful ingredients. Both are biodegradable, kind to your hands, and will leave your windows sparkling. Because they clean the panes so thoroughly, they will stay cleaner longer than with any other solution. Both products exceed the Green Seal GS-37 criteria. Glass Gleam-4 has been certified by Green Earth Technologies and has been approved for many LEED projects.

The easiest way is to ask your distributor for a squeeze dispensing bottle that we manufacture. It’s clearly marked and provides a precise measurement every time. We recommend 1/10th of an ounce per gallon for GG3, and ¼ ounce per gallon with GG4.

Convincing an experienced window cleaner to switch from dish soap to a custom crafted solution isn’t always easy. However, the results speak for themselves; more satisfied customers, more call-backs, contracts, referrals and overall satisfaction. And since GG-4 will keep the pane cleaner longer, you’re free to add new accounts to fill your calendar. GG-4 will keep the pane wet on very hot and windy days, dish soap is just the opposite and presents the familiar white streaks that need to be re-worked. GG-4 doesn’t won’t leave your lower sill full of soap bubbles that take 5 minutes to clean out. Using dish soap for a long time teaches the user to use a strong wrist grip, and GG-4 was designed to make your work easier for you, and requires a very light wrist touch. I personally prefer using a wagtail, and that evens my grip out to the exact pressure needed to clean windows all day without causing wrist fatigue.

Adding more GG-4 concentrate than ½ ounce per gallon of water won’t improve performance. It’ll have the opposite effect and reduce slip and cause both chatter and bleed-back. Adding Dawn to that will give you the slip back, but will leave a film just as you described, and soapy bubbles everywhere. Unlike dish soap, which is made for dishes, GG-4 was created in a laboratory, where the number of oxygen molecules present in a gallon of water was calculated, and GG-4 was set as a concentrate based on those results. GG-4 works best at our recommended dilution of ¼ ounce per gallon, so once you’ve exceeded that, the ratio is off and you might as well be using just the dish soap.  GG-4 in solution is 98.7% water, and the way it works is by creating a negative ion, non-magnetic surface on the pane. This does two things: first, it instantly breaks the bonds that hold particulates to the pane, and second, it prevents moisture from clinging to the pane. This leaves your customer with windows that shine like diamonds in the sun, rather than reveal a film that quickly gets dirty again, like dish soaps.

Concentration levels are different. GG3 is a super concentrate and one gallon of it will produce 1200 gallons of window cleaning solution. One gallon of GG4 will produce 500 gallons of window cleaner. For GG3, recommended dosage is 1/10th ounce per gallon, where GG4 requires ¼ ounce per gallon. GG4 contains a polymeric water softener and more detergent than GG3.

There are several slip agents available but they do not improve Glass Gleam’s performance.  Some of them may even leave a residue on the glass. Glass Gleam offers considerable drag reduction and slip because there is no residual soap film left on the glass after you squeegee.
Consider these suggestions::
1.  Overlap less on cleaned glass so you have most of the squeegee rubber on the wetted glass.
2.  If you wipe the rubber after each pass, use a damp sponge or cloth. Don’t dry the rubber too much. Or tap the squeegee at the bottom or side of the window to remove excess water.
3.  Don’t press too hard. A lighter touch works best and is faster and less fatiguing.

Yes, Glass Gleam #3 and #4 contain no ammonia which should never be used to clean Plexiglass. Always make sure to use a soft cloth as Plexiglass has a very soft surface that can scratch.

Yes. Though most water-fed poles uses ionization to cause the dirt to release from the glass you can still use Glass Gleam to help keep the windows cleaner longer. You may need to change your filters more often if using this method. Simply add it to your washing fluid tank or reservoir connected to your water supply and work as usual. Once cleaned with Glass Gleam, the glass will continue to repel water so that dirt redeposition is greatly reduced, so the windows stay cleaner longer than with other soaps.

1:500. As a general rule for GG-3, you would add 3mL of concentrate per 4 L of water. For GG-4, that’s 2mL per L. Of the two choices, Glass Gleam-4 is better for this application because it contains a polymeric water softener that eliminates calcium and other deposits, which cause spotting when drying.

Automotive.  Add about 1/4 Fl. Oz. per gallon of water in the windshield spray reservoir of cars and trucks. This greatly improves the cleaning performance of the windshield wipers and reduces chatter. Also carry a ready-to-use mixture in a trigger spray bottle in your car, truck or van to clean the windshield and glass. Add GG-4 to the squeegee bucket at automotive service stations, quick lubes and fleet depots.
Solar Window Film Installation.  Use Glass Gleam to clean windows and as a water-soap solution for film installation.  It’ll stay wet a longer giving you time to get the film positioned perfectly. Glass Gleam products have a neutral pH, no ammonia or phosphates, and will not harm film.

Glass Gleam 3 and 4 have a neutral pH of about 7.3, very close to the pH of your skin. Sodium hypochlorite, or household bleach, at 5% NAOCl has a pH of 12.3.

Glass Gleam products don’t provide freeze protection. To reduce the freezing point of water to 0°F (-18°C) it is necessary that methanol be added to the water so the mixture is about 28% methanol and 72% water. For protection to -20°F (-29°C) you need 36% methanol and 64% water. You can buy windshield washer fluid premixed for either 0°F or -20°F. Glass Gleam should be added to this water/methanol mix, about 1/4 ounce per gallon, to provide the necessary cleaning and performance benefits.  Translation: use 50% windshield washer fluid with 50% water, then add 1/4 ounce of GG-4 per gallon.  Use 100% windshield washer fluid for your detail rag.
Keep any pre-mixed solution warm overnight to prevent freezing.

Yes you can, but since solar panels tend to get hotter and dirtier than window panes, we’ve formulated Glass Gleam Solar for this type of work. It stays even wetter on hot and windy days to prevent streaking, restores the photovoltaic efficiency of the panel to 100% and keeps it there longer. At this writing, solar panel cleaning doesn’t pay as well as window washing, so saving you time on the job is what Glass Gleam Solar is all about.

The cost of using Glass-Gleam Solar is pennies per bucket. Solar Panel cleaning expenses are almost all labor. The small cost of Glass-Gleam Solar is more than offset by faster production with less effort, compared to dishwashing soaps or home-brewed solutions, for example. Dishwashing soaps often differ from one purchase to the next, leave a film on the panels, make tool handles slippery when wet and then tacky while drying, have excessive bleeding and too much foam, to name some drawbacks. Dishwashing soaps are intended to wash opaque dishware rinsed in hot water. A reflective residual film leaves a shiny surface and lots of foam in the sink are key selling features of dish soaps. Glass Gleam Solar, in contrast, is a professional solar panel cleaning solution designed for solar panels and the needs of solar panel cleaners. You and our customers will notice the difference. Plus you can use Glass Gleam Solar as a sales tool – that you use only the best professional products.
Solar panels are tilted and can accumulate dirt rapidly, reducing the photovoltaic output of the panels.  By using a product that is proven to get the panels to 100% PV output, and to keep them cleaner longer, you’re sure to get the callbacks and referrals that you need to build your solar panel cleaning business.

Yes you can.  Simply add it to your disbursement tank, or utilize a hose type applicator. If solar panels have only light dirt and no bird or other pollution, you can apply with your pole, then apply a quick rinse, and in most cases, you won’t even need to brush or mop the panel. GG-Solar is scientifically designed to create a negative ion area on the glass and force the surface molecules to bond to the water rinse. Since GG-Solar contains a polymeric water softener, there will be no residue left on the glass, and even in high-heat or high-wind situations won’t leave behind water spots or white streaks. It’s green certified and don’t forget to show our 4-color product flyer to your customer. Nothing sets you apart from the competition like a professional solution. If you’re in a rush, email me at Alan@TitanLabs.net and I’ll send it to you right away.

That’s a good question, considering the fact that we make the claim that it indeed is a degreaser in our marketing materials. However, a typical “de-greaser” is usually a solvent of some sort that can break apart oil-based molecules. Glass Gleam-Solar works differently, so we can make that claim along with all the other great features of this unique product. GG-Solar works by creating a negative ion area on the plate glass of solar panels. This effectively un-bonds the positive and negative ions on the surface, forcing whatever is on the glass to separate and rinse away with water. So to answer your question, yes it is a light duty degreasing agent in that it will undo any foreign molecules sitting on the glass. Keep in mind that when mixed properly, GG-Solar is 98% water, and since it contains no ammonia, alcohol, acids, nor any other caustic agent, it is the perfect solution for cleaning solar panels. It’s also biodegradable and green certified. It will stay wetter longer than any other solution, allowing you time to work in high winds or high heat.

The milky white film is caused by oxidized aluminum window frames and/or deteriorating caulking. Just a touch of this with your finger will reveal if that’s the true source. Once you touch your wand to this it will instantly contaminate your entire wand and if you put it back in your bucket, it’ll ruin that too. The film is now on the window and is very difficult to remove. If this happens to you, A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover will quickly restore the window and remove the film.
You can also offer to clean and restore the window frames with A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover, which will restore the aluminum frame to a smooth surface, then rinse with a hose. It won’t cure the frame, but it will hold the problem at bay long enough to get the windows cleaned.  A quicker and less expensive technique is to pre-wash the windows using a brush or pole with a hose to rinse away the loosest bits of oxidization. This won’t prevent the film, it’ll only reduce it. Once you’ve pre-washed the window frame, you can move in to mop and squeegee the pane, but try to use as little water/soap solution as possible. Using Glass Gleam-4 for these jobs is your best option, since the cleaning power of GG-4 is superior and works well even when very little is applied, and it will stay wet a long time so you can work around these problems.
These conditions will slow you down. Make a note of this account and charge accordingly. This problem won’t go away.

Low-E ( or low thermal emissivity) coatings are generally applied to the inside surface of dual or triple-paned windows.   The interior of the surface of low-E glass has a thin pyrolytic coating which gives it improved thermal performance. The inner space between the panes is filled with argon gas. The outside surface of these windows can be cleaned like any other window pane, since the coating is on the inside of the pane. A-1 can be used on these outer surfaces without any concern.  After cleaning with A-1, we recommend a thorough washing with Glass-Gleam 4.
However, if you run into a low-E coating that has been applied to the outside of a single-paned glass, it will have a coating with a very fine, hard texture which requires a different cleaning procedure when compared to regular glass. Most manufacturers warn against using anything to clean these except deionized water. They especially warn against using ammonia, alcohol, and especially metal objects such as razor blade scrapers or steel wool. This can permanently damage the coating and can void the warranty. If you encounter a finish like this that has been improperly cleaned, usually permanent spots and streaks are the clue that someone has previously made this damage.  This should be pointed out to the property owner prior to your cleaning with DI water to avoid any liability on your part.

On glass, from 1,000 to 4,000 square feet per gallon, depending on job conditions and actual spotting coverage on each pane. You obtain better coverage with hand application using steel wool than with power equipment.

Yes.  A-1 Hard Water Stain Remover will not only remove hard water spots, but also shines aluminum, stainless steel, copper, and most other metals.  A-1 Hard Water Stain Remover contains a uniquely engineered abrasive that greatly speeds cleaning and restoration of most surfaces, including glass, porcelain, fiberglass, and tile.  Removes and cleans mineral deposits, acid rain, cement leaching, silica, screen burn, soap scum, oxidation, scale, lime, corrosion, chalking, and rust.

The best way is to apply it to your towel, sponge or zero grit steel wool, then apply to the stained area.  It contains a non-scratching abrasive so you can rub in circles or straight lines, reverse your circle, or just plain scrub and you don’t have to worry about scratching the surface. You can use an orbital buffer if the job is large, set at or below 1200 rpm.  If you use a buffer, take great care as heat generated by the friction could scratch the surface.

Yes. A-1 contains no acids so it is safe on and around all natural stones.  It is especially useful when cleaning showers/baths and spas built of natural stones, as well as tile, shower doors, faucets, sinks, window frames, and of course, glass.

A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover is a safe, non-acid thick formulation that will not scratch the glass nor run down.
There are many types of hardwater stains, and we can not be sure that one of these will work in a specific situation, even though we have had excellent reports. A-1 is worth carrying to your jobs for hardwater stain removal, not only on windows but for shower doors and surrounds. The A-1 has a useful feature, since it is non-acid, that you can use it where marble, granite, limestone, or other natural stones are used on floors or counters, which could be damaged by any acid, including lemon juice or vinegar. A-1 is safe on these materials, since it is non-acid but alkaline.
There is no assurance that this product would work, but in seminars at the IWCA they also recommend it to be used first. This product will not scratch the glass, or run the risk of “frying” the glass if stronger acids or more abrasive products were employed. There is a product using hydrofluoric acid called Crystal Clear 550 that may work where nothing else will. The tradeoff is that the HF acid could be very harmful to the user, requires care with gloves and a face shield, non-target surfaces must be protected, such as parked cars, and HF acid could also damage the glass surface if the leaded side of the float glass is being cleaned.

A-1 Hard Water Stain Remover will not only remove hard water spots, but also shines aluminum, stainless steel, copper, and most other metals.  A-1 Hard Water Stain Remover contains a uniquely engineered abrasive that greatly speeds cleaning and restoration of most surfaces, including glass, porcelain, fiberglass, and tile.  Removes and cleans mineral deposits, acid rain, cement leaching, silica, screen burn, soap scum, oxidation, scale, lime, corrosion, chalking, and rust.
Use A-1 on:
Windows
Windshields
Showers
Boats
Fiberglass
Aluminum
Stainless Steel
Mineral Deposits
Acid Rain
Cement Leaching
Silica
Screen Burn
Soap Scum
Oxidation
Scale
Lime
Corrosion
Chalking
Rust

Yes.  It is approved by the USDA for use on food preparation areas.  The important aspect is that Titan Green is non-hazardous and leaves behind no residue, making it safe to use on all surfaces.

It’s green in color, and comes as a concentrate, so in a way, it’s a lot ‘greener’ than most other multipurpose cleaners. Many customers contact us wanting to know if Titan Green is similar to Simple Green, which is designed more for a disinfectant use than for cleaning hard to clean areas. The cleaning and de-greasing power of Titan Green is superior to Simple Green. Regarding green certification, the pathway to certification involves regulations that are very strict and costly; but if you want something cleaned, there’s no better multipurpose cleaner and de-greaser available. Because it comes as a concentrate, you can decide how to mix, according to the job at hand. Once mixed, it’s between 60 to 90% water, depending on your dilution ratio.

With every janitorial distributor carrying sometimes over 15  “multi-purpose cleaners” we never had any inclination to develop such a product. But when the call came from NASA to produce a multi-purpose cleaner that left no residue and had degreasing powers, we couldn’t refuse. They wanted to clean parts for satellites and such, so we took a look at what was already available and found that nearly all multi-purpose cleaners were duds. You can compare Titan Green with Fantastic, 409, and any other multi-purpose cleaner and see for yourself. Since it comes as a concentrate, you get to decide if you’ll mix it light, medium, or strong to suit the job at hand. It truly is The High Tech Cleaner of the Space Age. Here we are over 25 years later and it still remains the best performing multi-purpose cleaner available.

Cement Off can dissolve any size clump of a cementitious substance, provided it can come into contact with it. If there is any standing water in the pipe between the drain and the clog, use a shop-vac to remove most of that water so that the Cement-Off product can reach the clog undiluted and will get right to work dissolving the binder in the cement. A clog this size could take 24 hours to completely dissolve.

Cement-Off contains a small amount of phosphoric acid, which is a very safe acid. It’s the same acid used to make soft drinks fizzy. However, it can harm plants, vegetation and its run-off, especially on painted buildings, can affect the paint slightly. This is true with all painted surfaces, siding, and stucco. Remember, stucco IS concrete, so be extra careful when working on stucco buildings. To avoid this problem, simply keep the run-off area wet with water and avoid run-off directly onto plants and vegetation. Light streaks on stucco will usually fade within a few weeks, so try to keep the run-off area wet at all times.

The secret to removing the cementitious material is to keep it wet with full-strength Cement Off for several minutes. This can be done by applying Cement Off to a sponge or rag and placing it over the stain until the stain begins to dissolve. Be careful working with glass since the raw materials in the cement can scratch glass. Instead of scrubbing the stain from glass, a water rinse is advised. Afterward, clean the window with Glass Gleam 4 for a sparkling clean window that stays cleaner longer.

Cement Off is a non-acid formula containing no hazardous or harmful ingredients and won’t harm windows, frames, or siding. It simply works by dissolving the bonding agent within the cement, stucco, self-leveling flooring, or any other cementitious material.

Yes, Cement-Off will dissolve away the material that holds together concrete and other cementitious materials. It leaves behind the raw materials such as sand, rock or silica, which can be wiped away easily. Be careful when using on glass or metal surfaces, so you don’t accidentally scratch the surface with these raw materials.

Oil-Flo Safety Solvent Cleaner was designed to work efficiently and contain no hazardous ingredients. It took over 10 years of research to uncover the secret of dissolving tar, pitch, asphalt, adhesives etc. WITHOUT the use of benzene, toulene, xylene and all other chlorinated solvents and fluorocarbons, and remain water soluble so it can be rinsed away cleanly. Oi-Flo Safety Solvent Cleaner is safe to the user and safe to the environment and leaves behind zero residue!

The freezing point for Oil-Flo has never been determined. It has been tested to be used in temperatures as low as -20 degrees (F) without any sign of thickening or freezing.

1. Apply. Some suggestions for applying Oil-Flo are to use a solvent resistant trigger sprayer, pump sprayer, pour on directly, or apply to a cloth or sponge.  Use full strength on a dry surface. Use sparingly. (Do not apply to carpets without reading our Carpet Note).
2. Agitate. You can use an appropriate scrubber or tool. This would include a towel, rag, terry cloth, burlap, nylon or mesh scrub pad, steel wool, scrub brush (e.g., bristles of nylon, polypropylene, or brass) Teflon™ or nylon scraper (such as a fry pan scraper, body filler applicator or old credit card).
3. Rinse. Rinse with water. A wet cloth, sponge, garden hose, spray bottle of water, garden sprayer, pressure washer, under a faucet, in a washing machine or dishwasher; whatever the job will allow. Water can be picked up from a floor with a floor squeegee, dustpan and brush, wet/dry vacuum, absorbent mate­rial, sponge, carpet extractor, shop vac, or floor scrubber.
4. Dry. Wipe dry or allow to dry by natural air convection. Or use a heat gun, hair dryer, compressed air, a squeegee, or isopropyl alcohol rinse.

No. Don’t let Oil-Flo or any other chemical run into your drains. Our products contain no harmful ingredients, but once you dissolve a foreign substance, it is unknown what effect that substance will have, so is then considered hazardous waste. Storm drains are installed to replace the natural collection and run-off areas that existed before they constructed the surrounding properties. They drain to your local area’s natural water basin, whatever that may be. At your local builder’s supply, you can obtain what’s called waddle. It’s hay stuffed into a tube and doesn’t cost much. Lay that on the ground before the drain to catch your Oil-Flo runoff. Hay has naturally absorbent fibers that collect oils that pass through it, and lets water run through filtered. Make sure the run-off is going through the waddle, and not just passing under it. If you have a lot of Oil-Flo you need to clean up (a big job or spill maybe), absorb it into rice hull ash and dispose of properly. Be sure to know and understand your local regulations regarding run-off into drains as well as hazardous waste collection and disposal.

D’limonene is great at making the room smell like oranges and hiding the odor of strong solvents, but it is actually a cyclic turpene that can be caustic and harmful to skin. We’ve based our reputation on being safe to the user and adding a marketing gimmick to our products at the health risk of our users  is just not how we do things. Besides, then we’d have to raise the price to cover the cost of the additive.

You can dilute both Oil-Flo and Oil-Flo 141 with water. Since the properties of both products involve bonding to oxygen molecules, you don’t want to reduce the number of molecules available for this, so start by adding 10% water to your sprayer. If this solution works well for you, try adding another 5% until you start to notice a decline in performance. We know of some customers that routinely add 20% water, but keep in mind that they are doing work that is relatively light-duty.

On the discussion of cleaning things, you don’t make the problem vanish, you just move it. The unique formulation of Oil-Flo and Oil-Flo 141 provides its molecules with the power to bond to any petrochemical, then bond to the oxygen molecule present in good old H20, turning the entire mess into water, which is very easy to pick up with a mop or towel.

Brown haze will fade. On vinyl siding and some painted surfaces, including white cars, a brown or yellow haze may be left after spots of tar or asphalt are removed. This staining is usually a temporary discoloration from the dyes in the tar or asphalt. They usually fade in a few days when exposed to light, especially sunlight.
For carpets, if the stain reappears within a day or so: Stain remnants or Oil-Flo 141 or rinse water is still in the carpet fibers or backing. Too much liquid was used in the cleaning, or the stain was very wet, or drying was insufficient. Something is being wicked up by capillary action. Dry the area better by blotting, heat, or extraction. If stain reappears in a week or two, the Oil-Flo 141 is still present on the carpet fibers. Either too much was applied or it was not rinsed away. Keep rinsing or extracting the area. Do not over wet. If used by mistake on polyester or acrylic fibers, (not recommended) greater effort will be required.

Oil-Flo will quickly dissolve any petrochemical product and rinse away with a water rinse. It has been tested and worked superbly on, but not limited to, the following brands of sealers: Albina Asphalt, Armorseal, Asphalt Systems, Inc., Black Jack, Bonsal American, Brewer Cote, Cascade, Craft, Dalton Enterprises, DAP, Dewitt Products, F.E. Harding, Fass-Dri, Gardner-Gibson, Gem Seal, Henry Co., Maintenance Inc., Neyra Industries, Overkote Sealer, Pacific Coatings, Professional Paving Products, Raynguard, Red Devil, Roklin Systems, Rust-Oleum, Seaboard Equinox, SealMaster, Seal-Rite, Seal-Tite, Special Asphalt Products, Star Seal, The Extendit Co., Velvetop, Western Colloid.

Yes. Time is of the essence because the longer the sealer is on the vinyl surface, the harder it will be to remove. Looking at the surface of vinyl under a microscope, you’ll see mountain valleys and peaks. As the sealer settles further into these crevices, the harder it’ll be to get them out. Oil-Flo will attach itself to any petrochemical and then to water. Getting the Oil-Flo into the crevices and the water rinse back out can take multiple tries.

Yes. Most cars are finished with clear coat enamel, which is not a petrochemical. Work quickly and rinse with water. Work in small patches to avoid any problems with too much dwell time on the paint. Avoid Lexan as Oil-Flo will dissolve it immediately (tail light lenses). Test first; see disclaimer.

Yes, it’s the only asphalt remover we know of that works on both asphalt grade and coal tars equally well.

Yes. Most adhesives are part or wholly based petrochemicals, Oil-Flo is an effective adhesive remover. However, since most adhesive removal is done indoors, we suggest Oil-Flo 141 Safety Solvent Cleaner for this application.

Oil-Flo (original formula) will soften and remove hot melt adhesives.  Oil-Flo 141 will dissolve adhesives, but not hot melts. Hot melt adhesives aren’t really adhesives in the traditional sense, they are actually a form of thermoplastic and the technique for removing them is:
1. With an industrial heat gun, heat the glue to remove the larger chunks with a scraper. The heat range required for most industrial glues is 250 to 380 °F.
2. Create a solution of Oil-Flo with 8% water added. Apply to remaining glue left from the scraping process.
3. Oil-Flo in water solution will soften the hot melt which can then be scraped away with a scraper. Your heat gun can be used here too, to speed up the cleaning process.
4. Once the area is cleaned, reapply Oil-Flo and give a thorough wipe, then follow up with a final wipe of plain water to remove any remaining residue.
Oil-Flo can be used on all surfaces, except those made of petrochemicals such as Lexan. It is safe on Anilox rollers and most hose rubbers. If in doubt, do a small test on an old roller, hose, or scraper. Oil-Flo contains no hazardous ingredients and is safe to the user, biodegradable, and 100% water soluble. Safe for your hands and skin.  For prolonged skin exposure we suggest nitrile gloves to prevent your cuticles from drying out. Use eye protection when using any solvents like Oil-Flo Safety Solvent Cleaner.

100 to 400 square feet per gallon, depending on conditions.

Oil-Flo was originally designed to clean oil-tankers. In 1984, our first showing in the marketplace was demonstrating Oil-Flo to paving and roofing contractors, who loved it. They could use Oil-Flo to clean their tools and go to work each day with like-new tools. It’s a great product, but it’s a little too strong smelling for indoor use such as converting or flooring/carpet installation and cleaning. We reformulated and produced Oil-Flo 141.  141°F is its flashpoint, hence the name (the cutoff point for shipping via air is 140 degrees F, so it can be shipped anywhere overnight). It is a little less aggressive than the original Oil-Flo, has a fruity, soapy fragrance and works magic on adhesives. It’s water soluble too, so the only cleanup required is a water rinse, wipe-up, or mop.

Oil-Flo is safe on all non-petrochemically based surfaces. You can generally use Oil-Flo on unstressed acrylic (Plexiglass), polyethylene, PVC, ABS, vinyl and other thermo-setting plastics. Also on fiberglass (harmless to gel-coat). Do not use on polycarbonate (aka Lexan) such as a tail light lens or sight glass unless they have been treated to make them solvent resistant. Do not pour Oil-Flo into plastic cups or bottles as it may dissolve them. We offer empty bottles with solvent resistant trigger sprayers; ask your distributor for them.

Natural rubber, made from latex, is dissolved by Oil Flo and Oil Flo-141. Modified rubbers, including rubber hydrochloride, chlorinated rubber hydrochloride, and chlorinated rubber (rubber chloride) are more chemically resistant. Many rubber-based materials that look like rubber, such as elastomeric sealants may have plasticizing agents or elastomeric sealants, carbon black, zinc oxide, silica, tackifers or cyclohexane additives.
Synthetic rubbers, such as Buna-CB (polybutadiene), synthetic natural rubber (polyisoprene) and many other synthetic rubbers are available.  Some are very solvent resistant — used even as fuel lines in gasoline or diesel engines.  While there is only one chemical type of natural rubber, there are some 20 different types of synthetic rubber, with many grades and properties for various intended applications. About 70% of rubber used is synthetic.
There are too many variations of synthetic rubber and modified natural rubber to predict the effect of our solvent cleaners on them.  Removing rubber marks and tire marks, which are thin contaminants, can generally be done with Oil-Flo or Oil-Flo 141. Testing is suggested before use on rubber-like materials.

Yes. It is USDA approved for food preparation areas. It contains no hazardous chemicals, is water soluble, and leaves no residue, making it the perfect solution for hard to clean greases and oils. Follow all federal and state guidelines for using cleaning solvents in food preparation.

Yes, Oil-Flo 141 can dissolve cured polyurethane adhesives. The longer the adhesive has had to cure, the more you’ll need to agitate. It helps to occasionally spritz the area you’re agitating with water to help move the top surface of the adhesive away so that Oil-Flo 141 can penetrate the stain and come into contact and bond with its molecules.

Since Oil-Flo 141 is 100% water soluble, it won’t leave a residue when used properly.  The cloudy stain you see is the remaining emulsified glue that you were trying to clean from the flooring.  To remove the film, simply re-apply a small amount of Oil-Flo 141, then mop with plain water for a clean rinse.  Oil-Flo 141 is the best solution for removing adhesives because it is water soluble.  It’s safe on all surfaces, and won’t leave a residue.

Oil-Flo 141 is biodegradable and 100% water soluble.  However, once you’ve dissolved anything in it, it becomes classified as hazardous waste. That’s mainly because your local municipality hasn’t the time nor inclination to test everything that someone might want to flush, so it’s all considered hazardous waste until proven otherwise. The main consideration is really the fact that sewer systems eventually feed into your local water table, and anything other than pure water can be harmful to both flora and fauna. The coverage of Oil-Flo 141 is 400 square feet per gallon; a little goes a long way. If you are working with overflow, we suggest you soak up the excess with rice hull ash, kitty litter, or other absorbent material and put into the trash. If your job has a drain you can outline the drain with waddle (hay roll) or sand, and the oily parts will stick to the hay or sand and let the water run through. We recommend that you follow local rules regarding proper disposal in your region.

Regarding the installation of new flooring, one of the key features of Oil-Flo 141 is that it leaves no residue behind. That means that once properly rinsed, mopped, or wiped with water, then allowed to dry, the floor is prepped and  ready for you to install the new flooring. Oil-Flo 141 is safe on all sub-surfaces and materials.

When we developed Oil-Flo 141, our customers gave us feedback and we found that they needed something for small jobs (like carpet spotting and stain removal) that didn’t require a water rinse.  For wood flooring installers, they needed the same type of performance for cleaning up glue that seeps between the cracks of newly installed wood floors, and they can’t use a water rinse. For other applications, customers needed a product that produces the same result without a water rinse, hence we created Cleanup Solvent 22. It’s best for small jobs because it dries very quickly and leaves no residue, so on a bigger job you’ll want to use Oil-Flo 141 as it dries slowly, giving you time to work the area before it dries.

The product’s official name is Cleanup Solvent-22 Safety Solvent Cleaner. It’s a bit wordy for daily use, so we shorten it when we’re talking about it. You can be assured with any product from Titan Labs that it contains no CFC’s, benzene, toluene, or any other hazardous ingredients. CS-22 has passed Mil-Spec PRF 680, which on its own is proof that it is safe to users, dries quickly, and leaves zero residue behind. The military is a regular customer of ours. It’s even been approved for use aboard nuclear powered submarines.

Yes, it is safe on all surfaces where you typically would use a solvent.  The only time it’ll give you trouble is on painted surfaces. Not meaning clear-coated vehicles or equipment, but latex and flat wall paints that will come off on your towel as you might expect with any solvent.

Because our Hand Cleaner 38-A is water soluble, it will bond to any petrochemicals on your hands, then bond to water. This gives you better performance than products which are not water soluble. It will clean the grease/oil/tar, whatever from all cracks, fingernails, lines and leaves your hands feeling soft and very clean. We use a natural pumice of crushed walnut shells and lanolin. Most other hand cleaners are made of a type of jet fuel which evaporates quickly and they suggest you wipe with a towel. We suggest that when you use Hand Cleaner 38A, you rinse with water. But don’t take our word for it, contact us and we’ll send you a free sample to compare with your usual hand cleaner. This product sells itself. But be careful, your hands will be so clean after you’ve used it that your significant other may think you’ve been playing hookey all day instead of working.

Titan Laboratories disclaims all expressed or implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose, with respect to the product or information provided herein, and shall under no circumstances be liable for incidental or consequential damages. See labels and flyers for our warranty.