Titan Laboratories Frequently Asked Questions

Low E-Window Stains and A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover

I wish to thank you for taking the time to discuss the Low-E Window staining problem I encountered after using the below described Wash Safe Peroxide product to Clean the exterior of my House.

I was really impressed when ABC Window Cleaning Supply recommended I contact your company, Titan Laboratories.

More impressive is the time and professional way you discussed all aspects of the window staining problem I had and your recommendations to start Off 1st by conservatively trying your A-1 Stain Remover and Glass Gleam-4.

I received the two sample products and was astonished that both were truly Excellent.

The A-1 was easy to apply and instantly started to remove the stains. I then followed-up by washing with Glass Gleam-4 and as advertised the windows sparkle, even after the storm (Hurricane Matthew).

-N. McGinnis, Port Lucie, FL

Will Glass Gleam-4 Harm Aquatic Life?

The list of ingredients that are harmful to aquatic life, and are commonly found in dish soaps and other detergents include:

  • Phosphates
  • Triclosan
  • Dioxane
  • Sodium Laurel Sulfate
  • Fragrance
  • Hormone Disrupters
  • Coal Tar Dyes
  • Chlorine
  • Formaldehyde
  • Ammonia
  • Alcohol

Glass Gleam-4 contains none of these harmful ingredients and is green certified with Green Earth Technologies.  We even use an all-natural, non-staining dye, and ship in super-concentrated form to even further reduce our footprint.

Can I add dish soap to Glass Gleam-4? Can I increase the dilution ratio?

Adding more GG-4 concentrate than ½ ounce per gallon of water won’t improve performance.  It’ll have the opposite effect and reduce slip and cause both chatter and bleed-back.  Adding Dawn to that will give you the slip back, but will leave a film just as you described, and soapy bubbles everywhere.  Unlike dish soap, which is made for dishes, GG-4 was created in a laboratory, where the number of oxygen molecules present in a gallon of water was calculated, and GG-4 was set as a concentrate based on those results.  GG-4 works best at our recommended dilution of ¼ ounce per gallon, so once you’ve exceeded that, the ratio is off and you might as well be using just the dish soap.  GG-4 in solution is 98.7% water, and the way it works is by creating a negative ion, non-magnetic surface on the pane.  This does two things: first, it instantly breaks the bonds that hold particulates to the pane, and second, it prevents moisture from clinging to the pane. This leaves your customer with windows that shine like diamonds in the sun, rather than reveal a film that quickly gets dirty again, like dish soaps.

Convincing an experienced window cleaner to switch from dish soap to a custom crafted solution isn’t always easy.  However, the results speak for themselves; more satisfied customers, more call-backs, contracts, referrals and overall satisfaction.  And since GG-4 will keep the pane cleaner longer, you’re free to add new accounts to fill your calendar.  GG-4 will keep the pane wet on very hot and windy days, dish soap is just the opposite and presents the familiar white streaks that need to be re-worked.  GG-4 doesn’t won’t leave your lower sill full of soap bubbles that take 5 minutes to clean out.  Using dish soap for a long time teaches the user to use a strong wrist grip, and GG-4 was designed to make your work easier for you, and requires a very light wrist touch.  I personally prefer using a wagtail, and that evens my grip out to the exact pressure needed to clean windows all day without causing wrist fatigue.

What is the best ratio mix for Glass Gleam-3 in millilitres when using a water fed pole system? I don’t want to leave any spotting behind.

1:500.  As a general rule for GG-3, you would add 3 mL of concentrate per 4 L of water.  For GG-4, that’s 2mL per L.  Of the two choices, Glass Gleam-4 is better for this application because it contains a polymeric water softener that eliminates calcium and other deposits, which cause spotting when drying.

A milky white film appeared on the window. What is this film and how do I remove it?

The milky white film is caused by oxidized aluminum window frames and/or deteriorating caulking.  Just a touch of this with your finger will reveal if that’s the true source.  Once you touch your wand to this it will instantly contaminate your entire wand and if you put it back in your bucket, it’ll ruin that too. The film is now on the window and is very difficult to remove.  If this happens to you, A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover will quickly restore the window and remove the film.

You can also offer to clean and restore the window frames with A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover, which will restore the aluminum frame to a smooth surface, then rinse with a hose.  It won’t cure the frame, but it will hold the problem at bay long enough to get the windows cleaned.  A quicker and less expensive technique is to pre-wash the windows using a brush or pole with a hose to rinse away the loosest bits of oxidization.  This won’t prevent the film, it’ll only reduce it.  Once you’ve pre-washed the window frame, you can move in to mop and squeegee the pane, but try to use as little water/soap solution as possible.  Using Glass Gleam-4 for these jobs is your best option, since the cleaning power of GG-4 is superior and works well even when very little is applied, and it will stay wet a long time so you can work around these problems.

These conditions will slow you down.  Make a note of this account and charge accordingly.  This problem won’t go away.

Oil-Flo 141 has left a cloudy film on a newly installed wood floor. How do I remove it?

Since Oil-Flo 141 is 100% water soluble, it won’t leave a residue when used properly.  The cloudy stain you see is the remaining emulsified glue that you were trying to clean from the flooring.  To remove the film, simply re-apply a small amount of Oil-Flo 141, then mop with plain water for a clean rinse.  Oil-Flo 141 is the best solution for removing adhesives because it is water soluble.  It’s safe on all surfaces, and won’t leave a residue.

Can Cement-Off dissolve a clump of cement in a 3″ pipe?

Cement Off can dissolve any size clump of a cementitious substance, provided it can come into contact with it.  If there is any standing water in the pipe between the drain and the clog, use a shop-vac to remove most of that water so that the Cement-Off product can reach the clog undiluted and will get right to work dissolving the binder in the cement.  A clog this size could take 24 hours to completely dissolve.

Do Glass Gleam 3 and 4 contain phosphates?

Question:  I work as a LEED consultant on a project that incorporates a phosphate management plan. This plan requires that all exterior cleaning products must meet or exceed the Green Seal, GS-37 standard whereby the phosphate content may not exceed 0.5% by weight.   Do either of your products, Glass Gleam 3 and or Glass Gleam 4 meet this criteria?

Answer:  The unique formulas in both Glass Gleam-3 and Glass Gleam-4 contain no phosphates, ammonia, acids or any other harmful ingredients.  Both are biodegradable, kind to your hands, and will leave your windows sparkling.  Because they clean the panes so thoroughly, they will stay cleaner longer than with any other solution.  Both products exceed the Green Seal GS-37 criteria.  Glass Gleam-4 has been certified by Green Earth Technologies and has been approved for many LEED projects.


Can I Use GG-Solar With A Water Fed Pole?

Yes you can.  Simply add it to your disbursement tank, or utilize a hose type applicator.  If solar panels have only light dirt and no bird or other pollution, you can apply with your pole, then apply a quick rinse, and in most cases, you won’t even need to brush or mop the panel.  GG-Solar is scientifically designed to create a negative ion area on the glass and force the surface molecules to bond to the water rinse.  Since GG-Solar contains a polymeric water softener, there will be no residue left on the glass, and even in high-heat or high-wind situations won’t leave behind water spots or white streaks.  It’s green certified and don’t forget to show our 4-color product flyer to your customer.  Nothing sets you apart from the competition like a professional solution.  If you’re in a rush, email me at Alan@TitanLabs.net and I’ll send it to you right away.

How Should I Price Solar Cleaning Jobs?

Photovoltaic systems, mostly rooftop installations, can supply power directly to an electricity user. In these cases, the installation can only be justified when the output cost matches the price at which the user pays for his electricity consumption from the local utility. This situation is sometimes referred to as ‘retail grid parity’, ‘socket parity’ or ‘dynamic grid parity’.  You can assume the owner of the panels has done this math and knows what his costs are.  To find this number, calculate the average cost per Kilowatt hour your customer is paying (call the utility to get this number, or you could just ask the customer), then you have to use your experience in calculating the photovoltaic efficiency that would be achieved through cleaning.  Once you’ve made your analysis, show your customer the Return On Investment (ROI).  Don’t forget to show them our 4-color product flyer, showing it’s many features and green certification.  If you’re in a hurry, email me at Alan@TitanLabs.net and I’ll send you one ASAP.
Typically, particulate matter from air pollution, agriculture, construction and traffic accumulates on the panels, as well as pollen and sea salt. Solar panels mounted at an angle of less than five degrees can cause bigger losses in efficiency. That’s because dirt slips off panels that are installed at a steeper angle. Solar panels heavily soiled with bird droppings should be cleaned. That’s because the droppings essentially block all sunlight and will not be washed away when it rains.
Research has also found that at a few sites, photovoltaic panels were dirty enough to warrant cleaning due to very specific and localized circumstances. For example, being directly next to and downwind of a highway, factory or agricultural or air field may generate enough dirt to warrant cleaning.
On average, cleaning with GG-Solar results in a 18% increase in performance.  This includes some heavily soiled panels, and some that are under normal conditions and free of bird and other pollution.  If your job is heavy in pollutions, you could expect up to 25% increase in efficiency.  As solar panels become more efficient in the future, the importance of keeping them clean becomes even more valuable.  Also, a routine cleaning will keep the glass from oxidizing and permanent baked-in stains from leafs, bird, and other pollution.
GG-Solar is GREENER because we use less than a cup of water per panel on average and we ship our product in the highest concentration available.  While the sun is abundant (in most areas, sorry Seattle and the entire United Kingdom), water is scarce and we take conservation seriously.

Is Glass Gleam-Solar a Degreaser?

That’s a good question, considering the fact that we make the claim that it indeed is a degreaser in our marketing materials.  However, a typical “de-greaser” is usually a solvent of some sort that can break apart oil-based molecules.  Glass Gleam-Solar works differently, so we can make that claim along with all the other great features of this unique product.  GG-Solar works by creating a negative ion area on the plate glass of solar panels.  This effectively un-bonds the positive and negative ions on the surface, forcing whatever is on the glass to separate and rinse away with water.  So to answer your question, yes it is a light duty degreasing agent in that it will undo any foreign molecules sitting on the glass.  Keep in mind that when mixed properly, GG-Solar is 98% water, and since it contains no ammonia, alcohol, acids, nor any other caustic agent, it is the perfect solution for cleaning solar panels.  It’s also biodegradable and green certified. It will stay wetter longer than any other solution, allowing you time to work in high winds or high heat.

Can I use A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover on Low-E windows?

Low-E ( or low thermal emissivity) coatings are generally applied to the inside surface of dual or triple-paned windows.   The interior of the surface of low-E glass has a thin pyrolytic coating which gives it improved thermal performance. The inner space between the panes is filled with argon gas.  The outside surface of these windows can be cleaned like any other window pane, since the coating is on the inside of the pane.  A-1 can be used on these outer surfaces without any concern.  After cleaning with A-1, we recommend a thorough washing with Glass-Gleam 4.

However, if you run into a low-E coating that has been applied to the outside of a single-paned glass, it will have a coating with a very fine, hard texture which requires a different cleaning procedure when compared to regular glass.  Most manufacturers warn against using anything to clean these except deionized water.  They especially warn against using ammonia, alcohol, and especially metal objects such as razor blade scrapers or steel wool.  This can permanently damage the coating and can void the warranty.  If you encounter a finish like this that has been improperly cleaned, usually permanent spots and streaks are the clue that someone has previously made this damage.  This should be pointed out to the property owner prior to your cleaning with DI water to avoid any liability on your part.

I have some new furniture that says it should only be cleaned by a Code S Compliant Cleaner. What is Code S, and do any of your cleaning products meet these coded standards?

Yes, several of our products meet these coding standards.  First a little background:  Fabrics are coded as a way of categorizing them by the materials they’re made from and the type of cleaner that should be used for cleaning them.  Professional cleaners are well-educated on these codes and differing types of fabrics, but to the average consumer, they can be confusing.

There are three codes that cover most fabrics.

Code W fabrics are man-made such as polyester, nylon, acetate and olefin. These fabrics can be cleaned with Water-based cleaners.  Our Titan Green Multipurpose Cleaner is ideal for these fabrics.  It comes to you as a concentrate so you decide how strong to mix, based on your needs.

Code S fabrics include organic fibers such as cotton, rayon, linen, wool, silk, denim, velour, damask, etc. These fabrics should be cleaned with Solvent-based cleaners.  For these fabrics, we suggest Cleanup Solvent-22, which is not water soluble, and dries quickly.

Some fabrics are Code W/S meaning you can use either Titan Green or Cleanup Solvent-22, whichever you prefer.

Here are the instructions to care for your Code S fabrics.

General Cleaning Instructions

Tools Required:

  1. Vacuum
  2. Upholstery attachment
  3. Soft nylon-bristle brush

Steps for General Cleaning:

  1. Evaluate which areas are dirty and what level of “dirty” they are. Try to identify which areas are just dirt and which areas, such as headrests and armrests also have oils or other types of stains on them. This is a common occurrence when hands, hair, food/drinks often contact the fabric.
  2. Using a soft brush, brush away any loose dirt particles.
  3. Use a vacuum with the upholstery attachment to remove all remaining loose dirt particles.
  4. For oil or heavy-stained areas, follow the steps below for spot cleaning.

How to Spot Clean Stains and Oils

Tools Required:

  1. Cleanup Solvent-22
  2. Clean cloths
  3. Fan or hair dryer (optional)

Steps for Spot Cleaning Upholstery/Fabric:

  1. To clean dirty areas, it is best to spot-clean. Before applying any cleaners to the soiled areas, it is important to test a small, hidden area first to ensure there are not adverse effects to the color or texture of the fabric.
  2. If the test goes well, you are ready to start on the stains.
  3. Apply the Cleanup Solvent-22 to the stained area using a trigger sprayer or a clean, white cloth. Blot the stain moving to a clean section of the cloth each time. This will avert any reapplying of the original stain back onto the area being cleaned. When all of the stain is removed, allow the area to dry completely.
  4. If there are any difficult stains, brush them with your soft brush or vacuum the area to restore the fabric.
  5. The only time we would suggest cleaning more than just the soiled area during spot cleaning is on the seat and back cushions. It is best to clean the entire cushion surface so that it blends in well with the rest of the sofa.

Will Cement-Off run off damage stucco, plants or painted surfaces?

Cement-Off contains a small amount of phosphoric acid, which is a very safe acid. It’s the same acid used to make soft drinks fizzy.  However, it can harm plants, vegetation and its run-off, especially on painted buildings, can affect the paint slightly.  This is true with all painted surfaces, siding, and stucco.  Remember, stucco IS concrete, so be extra careful when working on stucco buildings.  To avoid this problem, simply keep the run-off area wet with water and avoid run-off directly onto plants and vegetation.  Light streaks on stucco will usually fade within a few weeks, so try to keep the run-off area wet at all times.

Your products have made a believer out of me!

“I was really surprised with the results of your A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover.  I applied it with an old damp piece of T-shirt and it worked perfectly, so imagine the results if I had used a white abrasive pad (which wasn’t even needed) that you recommend. My client was blown away by it and he gave me the go ahead to clean his whole house! Thanks again and I wish you all a great future!  Your products have made a believer out of me!”   -P. Bruinings, GMR Int’l, Austin, Texas.

How do I remove hot melt adhesives?

Oil-Flo (original formula) will soften and remove hot melt adhesives.  Oil-Flo 141 will dissolve adhesives, but not hot melts. Hot melt adhesives aren’t really adhesives in the traditional sense, they are actually a form of thermoplastic and the technique for removing them is:

  1. With an industrial heat gun, heat the glue to remove the larger chunks with a scraper.  The heat range required for most industrial glues is 250 to 380 °F.
  2. Create a solution of Oil-Flo with 8% water added.  Apply to remaining glue left from the scraping process.
  3. Oil-Flo in water solution will soften the hot melt which can then be scraped away with a scraper.  Your heat gun can be used here too, to speed up the cleaning process.
  4. Once the area is cleaned, reapply Oil-Flo and give a thorough wipe, then follow up with a final wipe of plain water to remove any remaining residue.

Oil-Flo can be used on all surfaces, except those made of petrochemicals such as Lexan.  Safe on Anilox rollers and most hose rubbers.  If in doubt, do a small test on an old roller, hose, or scraper.  Oil-Flo contains no hazardous ingredients and is safe to the user, biodegradable, and 100% water soluble.  Safe for your hands and skin.  For prolonged skin exposure we suggest nitrile gloves to prevent your cuticles from drying out.  Use eye protection when using any solvents like Oil-Flo Safety Solvent Cleaner.

I am interested in using 141 to remove cutback on a basement floor. Is this safe to flush through the sewer system? Will this for any reason make the concrete resist Stain/Poly?

Oil-Flo 141 is biodegradable and 100% water soluble.  However, once you’ve dissolved anything in it, it becomes classified as hazardous waste.  That’s mainly because your local municipality hasn’t the time nor inclination to test everything that someone might want to flush, so it’s all considered hazardous waste until proven otherwise.  The main consideration is really the fact that sewer systems eventually feed into your local water table, and anything other than pure water can be harmful to both flora and fauna.  The coverage of Oil-Flo 141 is 400 square feet per gallon; a little goes a long way.  If you are working with overflow, we suggest you soak up the excess with rice hull ash, kitty litter, or other absorbent material and put into the trash.  If your job has a drain you can outline the drain with waddle (hay roll) or sand, and the oily parts will stick to the hay or sand and let the water run through.  We recommend that you follow local rules regarding proper disposal in your region.

Regarding the installation of new flooring, one of the key features of Oil-Flo 141 is that it leaves no residue behind.  That means that once properly rinsed, mopped, or wiped with water, then allowed to dry, the floor is prepped and  ready for you to install the new flooring.  Oil-Flo 141 is safe on all sub-surfaces and materials.

Which Sealers Does Oil-Flo Work Best?

What type of sealers does Oil-Flo work best with?  Oil-Flo will quickly dissolve any petrochemical product and rinse away with a water rinse.  It has been tested and worked superbly on, but not limited to, the following brands of sealers:


Albina Asphalt Fass-Dri Rust-Oleum
Armorseal Gardner-Gibson Seaboard Equinox
Asphalt Systems, Inc. Gem Seal SealMaster
Black Jack Henry Co. Seal-Rite
Bonsal American Maintenance Inc. Seal-Tite
Brewer Cote Neyra Industries Special Asphalt Products
Cascade Overkote Sealer Star Seal
Crafco Pacific Coatings The Extendit Co.
Dalton Enterprises Professional Paving Prod’s Velvetop
DAP Raynguard Western Colloid
Dewitt Products Red Devil  
F.E. Harding Roklin Systems  


How can I tell if I have hard water and how does the polymeric water softener in GG-4 work?

GG-4 contains a polymeric water softener to break apart magnesium and calcium ions which are present in hard water.   GG-4 is an economically and ecologically sound window cleaning concentrate with a recommend strength of ¼ ounce per gallon of water.  At this dilution rate, GG-4 has been used with great success in areas of over 22 grams per gallon (gpg).  If you want to increase the water softening properties, simply add more GG-4, but no more than up to  ½ ounce per gallon total.  Be careful not to add too much.  Every time I hear someone say they don’t like GG-4’s performance, I usually find out they’re mixing it too strong.  Once mixed properly, using a lighter wrist pressure speeds up the cleaning, improves drag and reduces fatigue.

We offer a squeeze dispensing bottle to make these measurements easier.

Here is a table categorizing the different levels of hardness in water.  Notice there is no listing for ‘soft’ water.  Soft water is distilled water, which has the hardness boiled out of it.  Another method is to use a filter.

Over 14 gpg

  Extremely Hard

10 to 14 gpg

  Very Hard

7 to 10 gpg


3 to 7 gpg

  Moderately Hard

< 3 gpg

  Slightly Hard

gpg = “grains per gallon”

1 gpg ≈ 17 ppm            

You can check with your local water supplier to get a report of the hardness and other properties of your water supply.

After you’ve tried GG-4, you might find that you don’t have any problem at all with hardness.  But levels over 30 gpg (upper mid-east U.S.), your options are to either switch to distilled water and carry it around with you, or purchase a filter that you can take with you to the jobsite.

Water-softener systems use a process known as ion exchange to remove magnesium and calcium ions. The systems incorporate cartridges filled with a polymer resin impregnated with sodium ions. As water passes through the cartridges, the magnesium and calcium ions bind to the resin and displace the sodium ions; the hard water ions are therefore “exchanged” for the sodium ions, which do not cause hard water.  The downside to these systems is that the filters need to be changed regularly.

Technically, any chemical that reduces the amount of free magnesium and calcium ions in water qualifies as a water softener. Laundry detergents, for example, may contain sodium carbonate—Na2CO3, also known as soda ash or borax.  The negative ions bind magnesium and calcium ions and precipitate them from the water as solids.


Will Adhesive Remover damage rubber?

Natural rubber, made from latex, is dissolved by Oil Flo and Oil Flo-141.  Modified rubbers, including rubber hydrochloride, chlorinated rubber hydrochloride, and chlorinated rubber (rubber chloride) are more chemically resistant.  Many rubber-based materials that look like rubber, such as elastomeric sealants may have plasticizing agents or elastomeric sealants, carbon black, zinc oxide, silica, tackifers or cyclohexane additives.

Synthetic rubbers, such as Buna-CB (polybutadiene), synthetic natural rubber (polyisoprene) and many other synthetic rubbers are available.  Some are very solvent resistant — used even as fuel lines in gasoline or diesel engines.  While there is only one chemical type of natural rubber, there are some 20 different types of synthetic rubber, with many grades and properties for various intended applications.  About 70% of rubber used is synthetic.

There are too many variations of synthetic rubber and modified natural rubber to predict the effect of our solvent cleaners on them.  Removing rubber marks and tire marks, which are thin contaminants, can generally be done with Oil-Flo or Oil-Flo 141.  Testing is suggested before use on rubber-like materials.

What types of adhesives will your Adhesive Remover remove?

Titan Labs’ Adhesive Remover will remove all types of adhesives, except for 2-part epoxy.  It can even dissolve cured urethane adhesives from any surface.  It can also dissolve heavy greases, oils, tar and other petrochemically-based products. Great for removing tape residue, glue, flooring adhesives, bonding agents, and more.  With a pleasant fragrance and high flashpoint, it’s perfect for use indoors.

How should I apply Cement-Off?

The secret to removing the cementitious material is to keep it wet with full-strength Cement Off for several minutes.  This can be done by applying Cement Off to a sponge or rag and placing it over the stain until the stain begins to dissolve.  Be careful working with glass since the raw materials in the cement can scratch glass.  Instead of scrubbing the stain from glass, a water rinse is advised.  Afterward, clean the window with Glass Gleam 4 for a sparkling clean window that stays cleaner longer.

Does Cement-Off contain any acids or dangerous ingredients?

Cement Off is a non-acid formula containing no hazardous or harmful ingredients and won’t harm windows, frames, or siding.  It simply works by dissolving the bonding agent within the cement, stucco, self-leveling flooring, or any other cementitious material.

Will Cement-Off dissolve concrete?

Yes, Cement Off will dissolve away the material that holds together concrete and other cementitious materials.  It leaves behind the raw materials such as sand, rock or silica, which can be wiped away easily.  Be careful when using on glass or metal surfaces, so you don’t accidentally scratch the surface with these raw materials.

I’ve been using the same hand cleaner for years. Why would I switch to Hand Cleaner 38-A?

Because our Hand Cleaner 38-A is water soluble, it will bond to any petrochemicals on your hands, then bond to water.  This gives you better performance than products which are not water soluble.  It will clean the grease/oil/tar, whatever from all cracks, fingernails, lines and leaves your hands feeling soft and very clean.  We use a natural pumice of crushed walnut shells and lanolin.  Most other hand cleaners are made of a type of jet fuel which evaporates quickly and they suggest you wipe with a towel.  We suggest that when you use Hand Cleaner 38A, you rinse with water.  But don’t take our word for it, contact us and we’ll send you a free sample to compare with your usual hand cleaner.  This product sells itself.  But be careful, your hands will be so clean after you’ve used it that your significant other may think you’ve been playing hookey all day instead of working.

What kind of coverage can I expect with A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover?

On glass, from 1,000 to 4,000 square feet per gallon, depending on job conditions and actual spotting coverage on each pane. You obtain better coverage with hand application using steel wool than with power equipment.

Is A-1 effective at cleaning metal surfaces?

Yes.  A-1 Hard Water Stain Remover will not only remove hard water spots, but also shines aluminum, stainless steel, copper, and most other metals.  A-1 Hard Water Stain Remover contains a uniquely engineered abrasive that greatly speeds cleaning and restoration of most surfaces, including glass, porcelain, fiberglass, and tile.  Removes and cleans mineral deposits, acid rain, cement leaching, silica, screen burn, soap scum, oxidation, scale, lime, corrosion, chalking, and rust.

What types of stains is A-1 best at cleaning?

A-1 Hard Water Stain Remover will not only remove hard water spots, but also shines aluminum, stainless steel, copper, and most other metals.  A-1 Hard Water Stain Remover contains a uniquely engineered abrasive that greatly speeds cleaning and restoration of most surfaces, including glass, porcelain, fiberglass, and tile.  Removes and cleans mineral deposits, acid rain, cement leaching, silica, screen burn, soap scum, oxidation, scale, lime, corrosion, chalking, and rust.

Use A-1 on:
Stainless Steel
Mineral Deposits
Acid Rain
Cement Leaching
Screen Burn
Soap Scum

How should I apply A-1 in order clean most effectively?

The best way is to apply it to your towel, sponge or zero grit steel wool, then apply to the stained area.  It contains a non-scratching abrasive so you can rub in circles or straight lines, reverse your circle, or just plain scrub and you don’t have to worry about scratching the surface. You can use an orbital buffer if the job is large, set at or below 1200 rpm.  If you use a buffer, take great care as heat generated by the friction could scratch the surface.

Is A1 Hardwater Stain Remover safe to use on natural stone?

Yes. A-1 contains no acids so it is safe on and around all natural stones.  It is especially useful when cleaning showers/baths and spas built of natural stones, as well as tile, shower doors, faucets, sinks, window frames, and of course, glass.

Is Cleanup Solvent 22 safe to use on all surfaces?

Yes it is safe on all surfaces where you typically would use a solvent.  The only time it’ll give you trouble is on painted surfaces. Not meaning clear-coated vehicles or equipment, but latex and flat wall paints that will come off on your towel as you might expect with any solvent.

I know that your Oil Flo products are labeled as safety solvents. What about Cleanup Solvent 22?

The product’s official name is Cleanup Solvent-22 Safety Solvent Cleaner.  It’s a bit wordy for daily use, so we shorten it when we’re talking about it.  You can be assured with any product from Titan Labs that it contains no CFC’s, benzene, toluene, or any other hazardous ingredients.  CS-22 has passed Mil-Spec PRF 680, which on its own is proof that it is safe to users, dries quickly, and leaves zero residue behind. The military is a regular customer of ours.  It’s even been approved for use aboard nuclear powered submarines.

At first glance Cleanup Solvent 22 seems to perform a lot of the same functions as Oil Flo 141. What is the difference?

When we developed Oil-Flo 141, our customers gave us feedback and we found that they needed something for small jobs (like carpet spotting and stain removal) that didn’t require a water rinse.  For wood flooring installers, they needed the same type of performance for cleaning up glue that seeps between the cracks of newly installed wood floors, and they can’t use a water rinse.  For other applications, customers needed a product that produces the same result without a water rinse, hence we created Cleanup Solvent 22.  It’s best for small jobs because it dries very quickly and leaves no residue, so on a bigger job you’ll want to use Oil-Flo 141 as it dries slowly, giving you time to work the area before it dries.

You mention different dilution ratios for mixing Titan Green. What are they?

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS: For one pint of cleaning solution, add 1/4 oz. (1/2 Tablespoonful) Titan Green concentrate to 16 oz. water. For one gallon (128 oz.), add 1 to 2 oz. Titan Green concentrate to 126 oz. water. Use on hard surfaces as spray and wipe for windows and mirrors (squeegee recommended), stainless steel, Formica, chalk and marker board, desks, countertops, automobiles, wet-mop floors etc.

HINTS:  For washing cars, pour an ounce or so into a bucket of water. Work in the shade. Hose off the car first working from the bottom up. Work in sections. Wash with Titan Green mixture using a sponge or mitt. Hose off. Squeegee or buff the windows. Great results. For windows and mirrors, first spray on Light Duty Mix. Lightly scrub glass with a cloth, sponge, or strip-washer. Squeegee, or wipe dry with a cloth. Buff the glass with a dry cloth and see how it sparkles!  Add a few capfuls to your windshield wiper spray reservoir.  Keep a spray bottle of Titan Green Light Duty Mix, an auto squeegee, and a rag in your car; a clean windshield is important for safety. Use also for catching spills on upholstery, gas overflow on paint, dirty hands, etc.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS: For one pint of cleaning solution, add 1 oz. Titan Green concentrate to 15 oz. water. For one gallon (128 oz,), add 8 oz. Titan Green concentrate to 120 oz. water.
Use for general cleaning as a “spray and wipe” for walls, work counters, carpets, upholstery, car interiors, paint oxidation removal, microwave ovens, venetian blinds, sinks, food stains, industrial work surfaces, airplanes, motorcycles, trucks, forklifts, spray ants, etc. Gets off red clay dust and dirt no other cleaner will remove.

HINTS:  This is your most common mixture. Leave the Medium Duty Mix in place for a few minutes to aid in cleaning. A white or green nylon scrub pad often helps. Add Titan Green to water in a burnt pot, bring to a boil, let soak. Then scrub clean.  On carpets and fabrics, let stand a few minutes, then place a clean terry cloth over the stain and tamp with your fist or heel to blot up the stain without spreading it. Rub from the outside of the stain towards the center. Dissolve acid powder from car battery terminals. Spray dishes when hand washing or pre-spray dishes sitting in dishwasher.  Restore grips on tennis rackets and golf clubs.  Steam out certain “impossible” carpet stains such as the dye in Kool-Aid or in pet foods. Spray Titan Green on the dye stain. Cover with a clean white terry cloth. Run a hot iron, on polyester setting, over the terry cloth to steam out the stain and capture it. Keep the iron moving and the carpet wet with cleaner to prevent scorching.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS: In a bucket, add one part of Titan Green Concentrate to 9 parts of water. About 13 oz. Titan Green to a gallon of water. Or one cup (8 oz). to 9 cups (2-1/4 qts.) water. One gallon (or quart) of concentrate makes 10 gallons (or quarts) of ready-to-use cleaner. Mix only enough to use at once; discard unused mixed liquid or label clearly if stored briefly. Use for cleaning decks, awnings, oil-stains from asphalt, driveways, walkways. Rinse with water afterwards. Cleans decks of dirt, soot, grime, food and vegetation stains, restores the appearance.

HINTS:  For cleaning decks, mix enough to wet the entire deck surface. Flood the deck, agitate with a stiff bristled push broom. Rinse with a garden hose. Apply to oil stains on asphalt. You can agitate with a broom for better results. Wait a minute or two and rinse with a stream from a garden hose or pressure washer.

MIXING INSTRUCTIONS: For one pint of cleaning solution, add 4 oz Titan Green concentrate to 12 oz water. For one gallon, add 32 oz Titan Green (one quart) to 3/4 gallon water (3 quarts).
Use for degreasing car engines, airplanes, motorcycles, on whitewall tires and alloy wheels, grill hoods, concrete and asphalt, light wax stripping, grout, fire and smoke damage. Ideal for laundry presoak. Increase strength to 1:1 or full strength for heavy duty degreasing, wax stripping, ovens, grills, crayon and heel marks. Rinse grills and food surfaces with clear water.

HINTS: Warm ovens are easier to clean, (Be sure oven is turned off first.) Leave the Heavy Duty Mix in place for a few minutes before scrubbing. For wax stripping let stand a few minutes. Keep a spray bottle of Heavy Duty Mix on your washing machine, Spray on collars, cuffs and stains before washing. Brush collars with a nail brush, dish brush or toothbrush.

What are some typical uses for Titan Green?

Titan Green Multi-Purpose Cleaner comes to you as a super-concentrate. You simply mix it with water to make a cleaning solution ideal for your intended task. It replaces hundreds of specialized cleaners.  Titan Green Multi-Purpose Cleaner is a super-strength concentrate with exceptional cleaning and de-greasing ability. It has been proven by millions of sales to commercial, industrial, institutional and residential customers.

These customers include some of the largest organizations—from the military, to leading manufacturers in the aircraft, chemical, petroleum and hospitality industries. Plus thousands of smaller companies — such as machine shops, stores, construction contractors, offices, contract cleaners, automobile and truck detailers, schools, institutions and homes.

Why do so many customers choose Titan Green? Because of its effectiveness, convenience, versatility, safety and environmentally friendly. You simply dilute this powerful concentrate with water to create your own special-purpose cleaner. The utmost in convenience and economy. Titan Green simplifies life and reduces labor.

Besides terrific cleaning performance and convenience, this super-concentrate is also environmentally friendly—by using it you significantly reduce packaging trash and the pollution caused by transporting unnecessary water.

Titan Green is biodegradable and USDA approved. It produces spectacular results. Dirt, grease, oil, soot, vegetation and food stains, to name a few, quickly yield to this high-tech cleaner. You can use it on all washable surfaces, including painted parts, walls, floors, machinery, carpets, equipment, vehicles, upholstery, clothing, counters, appliances, walkways, masonry, windows, etc. Titan Green leaves a pleasant fragrance. It rinses extremely clean. Every business, store, factory or home can benefit from it.

Air Filters, Benches, Boiler Fronts, Catch Trays of Stoves and Range Hoods, Chrome, Coffee Oils, Conveyors, Degreasing, Display Cabinets, Dried Lubricants, Lubrication Pits, Floors, Lunchrooms, Machinery, Machines, Marker Boards, Masonry, Metal Fabrication, Oxidation, Paint Brushes, Parking Areas, Parts, Plastics, Pre-shipping Cleanup, Presses, Quick Lubes, Restrooms, Sinks, Tools, Walls (Interior and Exterior), Work clothes, Worktops, Urinals.

Carpets, Concrete, Copiers, Counters, Carbon Paper Stains, Desks, Doors, Equipment, Floors, Furniture, Glass, Metal Surfaces, Office Machines, Painted Surfaces, Stainless Steel, Toner Stains, Windows, Work Surfaces.

Agricultural Spray Equipment, Batteries, Bugs from Windshields and Fenders, Chrome, Cigarette Haze on Windows, Coffee, Haze on Glass, Convertible Tops, Diesel Fuel Tanks, Driveways, Engines, Exhaust Stacks, Exterior Washing, Haze on Windshields, Headliners, Motors, Oil Stains, Oxidation, Plastics, Sleeper Cabs, Tractors, Truck Steps, Trucks, Upholstery, Vinyl, Wheels, White-Wall Tires, Windows, Windshield Washer Tanks.

Bathrooms, Carpets, Cat Litter Boxes, Ceiling Fans, Chrome, Cigarette Haze, Driveways, Fiberglass, Fireplace Screens, Floors, Glass, Hair Brushes, High Chairs, Laundry, Linoleum, Mildew, Mirrors, Painting Preparation, Pet Stains and Odors, Oil Stains, Plastic, Porcelain, Sinks, Showers, Swimming Pools, Tile, Tools, Upholstery, Urine (neutralizes and deodorizes), Urine Stains, Venetian Blinds, Vinyl, Walls, Windows, Woodwork.

Boats and Ships
Bilges, Chrome, Davits, Decks, Engines, Fiberglass, Fish Lockers, Galleys, Ladders, Lines, Rub Marks, Safety Equipment, Sails, Stainless Steel, Upholstery, Vinyl Seats, Windscreens.

OTHER Campers, Camping Gear, Chainsaws, Fire Damage, 4WD’s, Gravestones, Motorcycles, Planes, Power Equipment, RV’s, Smokehouses, Sports Equipment, Wind Generators, and more.

Is Titan Green safe to use around food preparation areas?

Yes.  It is approved by the USDA for use on food preparation areas.  The important aspect is that Titan Green is non-hazardous and leaves behind no residue, making it safe to use on all surfaces.

Why do you call this cleaner Titan Green? Is it a “green” product?

It’s green in color, and comes as a concentrate, so in a way, it’s a lot ‘greener’ than most other multipurpose cleaners.  Many customers contact us wanting to know if Titan Green is similar to Simple Green, which is designed more for a disinfectant use than for cleaning hard to clean areas.  The cleaning and de-greasing power of Titan Green is superior to Simple Green.  Regarding green certification, the pathway to certification involves regulations that are very strict and costly; but if you want something cleaned, there’s no better multipurpose cleaner and de-greaser available.  Because it comes as a concentrate, you can decide how to mix, according to the job at hand.  Once mixed, it’s between 60 to 90% water, depending on your dilution ratio.

Why do you call Titan Green “The high tech cleaner of the space age?”

With every janitorial distributor carrying sometimes over 15  “multi-purpose cleaners” we never had any inclination to develop such a product.  But when the call came from NASA to produce a multi-purpose cleaner that left no residue and had degreasing powers, we couldn’t refuse.  They wanted to clean parts for satellites and such, so we took a look at what was already available and found that nearly all multi-purpose cleaners were duds.  You can compare Titan Green with Fantastic, 409, and any other multi-purpose cleaner and see for yourself.  Since it comes as a concentrate, you get to decide if you’ll mix it light, medium, or strong to suit the job at hand. It truly is The High Tech Cleaner of the Space Age.  Here we are over 25 years later and it still remains the best performing multi-purpose cleaner available.

I’ve just started cleaning solar panels and my dish soap works well. Why should I use Glass-Gleam Solar?

The cost of using Glass-Gleam Solar is pennies per bucket. Solar Panel cleaning expenses are almost all labor. The small cost of Glass-Gleam Solar is more than offset by faster production with less effort, compared to dishwashing soaps or home-brewed solutions, for example. Dishwashing soaps often differ from one purchase to the next, leave a film on the panels, make tool handles slippery when wet and then tacky while drying, have excessive bleeding and too much foam, to name some drawbacks. Dishwashing soaps are intended to wash opaque dishware rinsed in hot water. A reflective residual film leaves a shiny surface and lots of foam in the sink are key selling features of dish soaps. Glass Gleam Solar, in contrast, is a professional solar panel cleaning solution designed for solar panels and the needs of solar panel cleaners. You and our customers will notice the difference. Plus you can use Glass Gleam Solar as a sales tool – that you use only the best professional products.

Solar panels are tilted and can accumulate dirt rapidly, reducing the photovoltaic output of the panels.  By using a product that is proven to get the panels to 100% PV output, and to keep them cleaner longer, you’re sure to get the callbacks and referrals that you need to build your solar panel cleaning business.

Can I use Glass-Gleam 3 or 4 to clean Plexiglass?

Yes, Glass Gleam #3 and #4 contain no ammonia which should never be used to clean Plexiglass.  Always make sure to use a soft cloth as Plexiglass has a very soft surface that can scratch.

Can I use Glass Gleam products on Solar Panels?

Yes you can, but since solar panels tend to get hotter and dirtier than window panes, we’ve formulated Glass Gleam Solar for this type of work. It stays even wetter on hot and windy days to prevent streaking, restores the photovoltaic efficiency of the panel to 100% and keeps it there longer.  At this writing, solar panel cleaning doesn’t pay as well as window washing, so saving you time on the job is what Glass Gleam Solar is all about.

What is Earth Friendly Technology?

Earth Friendly Technology is a certification that Glass Gleam-4 is a green product according to industry standards.  This way you and your customers have assurance that it contains no ammonia or other harmful ingredients, is packaged and shipped in accordance with green standards, and that our manufacturing process uses recycling in our efforts to reduce our carbon footprint.  While GG-3 isn’t certified, you can be sure it meets the same standards, especially when you consider that GG-3 is even more concentrated so you don’t have to pay to ship water to you that you can simply add on the job.  We’re working on getting LEED certified too, but in the meantime, LEED managers will often review a product that isn’t certified yet, and give it a waiver for the particular job.  If you need help with LEED certified jobs, contact us and our representative will be glad to handle the process for you.

I work in a cold area, what can I do to prevent my window cleaning solution from freezing?

Glass Gleam products don’t provide freeze protection. To reduce the freezing point of water to 0°F (-18°C) it is necessary that methanol be added to the water so the mixture is about 28% methanol and 72% water. For protection to -20°F (-29°C) you need 36% methanol and 64% water. You can buy windshield washer fluid premixed for either 0°F or -20°F. Glass Gleam should be added to this water/methanol mix, about 1/4 ounce per gallon, to provide the necessary cleaning and performance benefits.  Translation: use 50% windshield washer fluid with 50% water, then add 1/4 ounce of GG-4 per gallon.  Use 100% windshield washer fluid for your detail rag.

Keep any pre-mixed solution warm overnight to prevent freezing.

What are some other applications for Glass-Gleam 3 and 4?

Automotive.  Add about 1/4 Fl. Oz. per gallon of water in the windshield spray reservoir of cars and trucks. This greatly improves the cleaning performance of the windshield wipers and reduces chatter. Also carry a ready-to-use mixture in a trigger spray bottle in your car, truck or van to clean the windshield and glass. Add GG-4 to the squeegee bucket at automotive service stations, quick lubes and fleet depots.

Solar Window Film Installation.  Use Glass Gleam to clean windows and as a water-soap solution for film installation.  It’ll stay wet a longer giving you time to get the film positioned perfectly. Glass Gleam products have a neutral pH, no ammonia or phosphates, and will not harm film.

Do I need to add anything to my Glass-Gleam 3 or 4 mixture to help with squeegee slip?

There are several slip agents available but they do not improve Glass Gleam’s performance.  Some of them may even leave a residue on the glass.  Glass Gleam offers considerable drag reduction and slip because there is no residual soap film left on the glass after you squeegee.

Consider these suggestions::
1.  Overlap less on cleaned glass so you have most of the squeegee rubber on the wetted glass.
2.  If you wipe the rubber after each pass, use a damp sponge or cloth. Don’t dry the rubber too much. Or tap the squeegee at the bottom or side of the window to remove excess water.
3.  Don’t press too hard. A lighter touch works best and is faster and less fatiguing.

Can I use Glass-Gleam 3 or 4 with my water fed pole?

Yes. Though most water-fed poles uses ionization to cause the dirt to release from the glass you can still use Glass Gleam to help keep the windows cleaner longer.  You may need to change your filters more often if using this method.  Simply add it to your washing fluid tank or reservoir connected to your water supply and work as usual.  Once cleaned with Glass Gleam, the glass will continue to repel water so that dirt redeposition is greatly reduced, so the windows stay cleaner longer than with other soaps.

How will using Glass-Gleam 3 or 4 make my business better and more profitable?

The driving force behind your company’s reputation will be cleaner windows that stay cleaner a long time.  So does that mean you’ll have less work? No, on the contrary; if you’re cleaning an account once a month, you can now move them to once every other month, which frees you up for an entire month’s worth of new accounts, doubling your capacity for new business and profit.  The other positive affect is that your customers will be overly satisfied, which means callbacks and referrals.

Since the introduction of Glass Gleam products, we’ve heard nothing but excellent things from our customers.  See some of our testimonials.

I appreciate the high concentration of your Glass-Gleam products; how do I know the right amount to use?

The easiest way is to ask your distributor for a squeeze dispensing bottle that we manufacture. It’s clearly marked and provides a precise measurement every time.  We recommend 1/10th of an ounce per gallon for GG3, and ¼ ounce per gallon with GG4.

I currently use dish soap in my window cleaning business, why should I switch to Glass-Gleam 3 or 4?

Window cleaning costs are almost all labor.  The cost of dish soap is the same as using GG3 and GG4: just pennies per bucket.  Since dish soap is designed for cleaning dishes, it doesn’t stay wetter on hot or windy days, leaves white streaks, doesn’t glide with less effort, and won’t make the glass hydrophobic so that dirt deposition is reduced.  Dish soaps leave a residue that attracts new water molecules that trap and hold dirt.  Our professional products leave a noticeably cleaner glass that stays cleaner longer, allowing you more time to add more accounts to your business.  Nothing says “I’m a professional window cleaner” louder than a professional product that your customers will be begging for you to tell them what it is. Let your competition use dish soap and stand out in your field.

How do I know if the water in my area is hard or soft?

Glass Gleam-4 Glass Cleaner Concentrate is a newer companion product to the well-known Glass Gleam-3. Some window cleaners wanted different features. In many parts of the country where the water is “hard” a new product was needed.

Glass Gleam-4 has polymeric water softeners especially desirable for use in hard water. Tap water is generally considered “hard’ if the calcium or magnesium content is over 5 grains per gallon (gpg). If your water has over 10 gpg, it is considered very hard, and over 14 gpg extremely hard. Some hardness is usually present — even Less than 3 gpg is classified as “slightly hard” by the Water Quality Association. The water-softening feature of GG-4 is important, providing water treatment similar to softened or de-ionized water without additional expense or effort.
Hard water is water that has high mineral content (in contrast with “soft water”). Hard water is often indicated by a lack of suds formation when soap is agitated in water. Wherever water hardness is a concern, water softening is commonly used to reduce hard water’s adverse effects.

More than 85% of American homes have hard water. The softest waters occur in parts of New England, South Atlantic-Gulf, Pacific Northwest, and Hawaii regions. Moderately hard waters are common in many of the rivers of the Tennessee, Great Lakes, and Alaska regions. Hard and very hard waters are found in some of the streams in most of the regions throughout the country. The hardest waters (greater than 1,000 ppm) are in streams in Texas, New Mexico, Kansas, Arizona, and southern California.

You can check with your local water provider to find out the hardness of your water.

In the United States, water hardness is indicated in Grains per Gallon (gpg) is defined as 1 grain (64.8 mg) of calcium carbonate per U.S. gallon (3.79 litres), or 17.118 ppm. .

Classification hardness in mg/L hardness in mmol/L hardness in dGH/°dH
Soft 0–60 0.3-3.00
Moderately hard 61–120 0.61–1.20 3.72-6.75
Hard 121–180 1.21–1.80 6.78–10.08
Very hard ≥ 181 ≥ 1.81 ≥ 10.14

Will Oil-Flo or Oil-Flo 141 damage rubber?

Natural rubber, made from latex, is dissolved by Oil Flo and Oil Flo-141.  Modified rubbers, including rubber hydrochloride, chlorinated rubber hydrochloride, and chlorinated rubber (rubber chloride) are more chemically resistant.  Many rubber-based materials that look like rubber, such as elastomeric sealants may have plasticizing agents or elastomeric sealants, carbon black, zinc oxide, silica, tackifers or cyclohexane additives.

Synthetic rubbers, such as Buna-CB (polybutadiene), synthetic natural rubber (polyisoprene) and many other synthetic rubbers are available.  Some are very solvent resistant — used even as fuel lines in gasoline or diesel engines.  While there is only one chemical type of natural rubber, there are some 20 different types of synthetic rubber, with many grades and properties for various intended applications.  About 70% of rubber used is synthetic.

There are too many variations of synthetic rubber and modified natural rubber to predict the effect of our solvent cleaners on them.  Removing rubber marks and tire marks, which are thin contaminants, can generally be done with Oil-Flo or Oil-Flo 141.  Testing is suggested before use on rubber-like materials.

How do I apply Oil Flo to a surface in order to clean it?

1. Apply. Some suggestions for applying Oil-Flo are to use a solvent resistant trigger sprayer, pump sprayer, pour on directly, or apply to a cloth or sponge.  Use full strength on a dry surface. Use sparingly. (Do not apply to carpets without reading our Carpet Note).

2. Agitate. You can use an appropriate scrubber or tool. This would include a towel, rag, terry cloth, burlap, nylon or mesh scrub pad, steel wool, scrub brush (e.g., bristles of nylon, polypropylene, or brass) Teflon™ or nylon scraper (such as a fry pan scraper, body filler applicator or old credit card).

3. Rinse. Rinse with water. A wet cloth, sponge, garden hose, spray bottle of water, garden sprayer, pressure washer, under a faucet, in a washing machine or dishwasher; whatever the job will allow. Water can be picked up from a floor with a floor squeegee, dustpan and brush, wet/dry vacuum, absorbent mate­rial, sponge, carpet extractor, shop vac, or floor scrubber.

4. Dry. Wipe dry or allow to dry by natural air convection. Or use a heat gun, hair dryer, compressed air, a squeegee, or isopropyl alcohol rinse.

Sometimes after using Oil Flo to clean a stain, a brown haze is left where the stain was. Will this go away?

Brown haze will fade. On vinyl siding and some painted surfaces, including white cars, a brown or yellow haze may be left after spots of tar or asphalt are removed. This staining is usually a temporary discoloration from the dyes in the tar or asphalt. They usually fade in a few days when exposed to light, especially sunlight.

For carpets, if the stain reappears within a day or so: Stain remnants or Oil-Flo 141 or rinse water is still in the carpet fibers or backing. Too much liquid was used in the cleaning, or the stain was very wet, or drying was insufficient. Something is being wicked up by capillary action. Dry the area better by blotting, heat, or extraction. If stain reappears in a week or two: The Oil-Flo 141 is still present on the carpet fibers. Either too much was applied or it was not rinsed away. Keep rinsing or extracting the area. Do not over wet. If used by mistake on polyester or acrylic fibers, (not recommended) greater effort will be required.

Is Oil-Flo 141 safe for cleaning food preparation areas?

Yes. It is USDA approved for food preparation areas.  It contains no hazardous chemicals, is water soluble, and leaves no residue, making it the perfect solution for hard to clean greases and oils.  Follow all federal and state guidelines for using cleaning solvents in food preparation.

Is Oil Flo an effective adhesive remover?

Yes. Most adhesives are part or wholly based petrochemicals, Oil-Flo is an effective adhesive remover.  However, since most adhesive removal is done indoors, we suggest Oil-Flo 141 Safety Solvent Cleaner for this application.  For more information, see our Adhesive Note.

Is Oil Flo safe to use on carpets?

Yes, but we suggest using Oil-Flo 141 instead. Oil-Flo 141 Safety Solvent Cleaner will remove many stains that are considered unusually difficult. This includes tars, oils, cosmetics, greases, toners, waxes and adhesives to name some categories. Oil-Flo 141 is a unique product. When rinsed with water, it leaves no residue. It has been proven extremely valuable to the professional cleaner or carpet installer for use on carpets, fabrics and many hard surfaces.

You must read and follow the advice given here before beginning to use Oil-Flo 141.  Please especially read the SAFETY CAUTIONS, MATERIAL CAUTIONS and LIMITED WARRANTY on the container or in the MSDS. Also, see our Carpet Note flyer.  When properly used, Oil-Flo 141 will become a major weapon in your arsenal of cleaning and spotting techniques.

Oil-Flo 141 Safety Solvent Cleaner and Degreaser is a “wet” cleaner. It dissolves certain stains and makes them water soluble. They must then be extracted or rinsed out with plain water. Some of these problem stains are listed below. Note that they are mostly based on petroleum or wax, plus chew­ing gum and some paints.


Adhesives Printer/copier toner Grease Pine tar Spray snow
Asphalt Cosmetics Lipstick Printer’s ink Tape residue
Crude oil Crayon marks Motor oil Resins Tree pitch
Blue Chalk Cutback Nail polish Roofing tar Waterproofing compounds
Candle Wax Dental Wax Paints Sealcoat Eye liner
Chewing gum Grafting compounds Enamel & Latex Shoe polish … and more!

Many kinds of stains that are troublesome will not respond to Oil-Flo 141. These include rust, dyes, bleach stains, mineral deposits, perspiration, food stains, Kool-Aid, coffee, pet stains, grass, etc.

There are spotters for some of these stains available from your distributor. But you should not use Oil-Flo 141 on them. And never apply it to polyester carpet fibers.

Oil-Flo 141 works best on these carpet and fabric materials: wool, nylon (including Antron, Ultron, Zeftron, Anso) and polypropylene or olefin (Herculon, Marquesa) carpets. Do not use on polyester fibers (Dacron and Trevira) which hold oily dirt and solvents. Although not found on carpets very often today, acrylic fibers also hold oily stains.

Test first. Test for suitability and color fastness. Especially carpets, fabrics, paints and plastics. Test on an inconspicuous place, such as in a closet or behind a door. If you rub the area with white cloth wetted with Oil-Flo 141 and color is transferred, you should discontinue use. Soil repellents. Oil-Flo 141 may remove fluorocarbon and silicon soil repellents such as Scotch-guard, Carpet Guard, or Teflon MF, if present in the carpet. Oftentimes soil repellents have been removed from previous cleaning. Local reapplication may be needed.

If the stain reappears within a day or so, then stain remnants or Oil-Flo 141 or rinse water is still in the carpet fibers or backing. Too much liquid was used in the cleaning, or the stain was very wet, or drying was insufficient. Something is being wicked up by capillary action. Dry the area better by blotting, heat, or extraction. If stain reappears in a week or two: The Oil-Flo 141 is still present on the carpet fibers. Either too much was applied or it was not rinsed away sufficiently. Keep rinsing or extracting the area. Do not over wet. If used by mistake on polyester or acrylic fibers, (not recommended) greater effort will be required.

I am cleaning a large outdoor area. Is it ok to just rinse the Oil Flo and whatever it removed down the storm drain?

No.  Don’t let Oil-Flo or any other chemical run into your drains.  Our products contain no harmful ingredients, but once you dissolve a foreign substance, it is unknown what effect that substance will have, so is then considered hazardous waste.  Storm drains are installed to replace the natural collection and run-off areas that existed before they constructed the surrounding properties.  They drain to your local area’s natural water basin, whatever that may be.  At your local builder’s supply, you can obtain what’s called waddle.  It’s hay stuffed into a tube and doesn’t cost much.  Lay that on the ground before the drain to catch your Oil-Flo runoff.  Hay has naturally absorbent fibers that collect oils that pass through it, and lets water run through filtered.  Make sure the run-off is going through the waddle, and not just passing under it.  If you have a lot of Oil-Flo you need to clean up (a big job or spill maybe), absorb it into rice hull ash and dispose of properly.  Be sure to know and understand your local regulations regarding run-off into drains as well as hazardous waste collection and disposal.

I see a lot of D’limonene based products on the market now. Why should I buy Oil Flo instead?

D’limonene is great at making the room smell like oranges and hiding the odor of strong solvents, but it is actually a cyclic turpene that can be caustic and harmful to skin.  We’ve based our reputation on being safe to the user and adding a marketing gimmick to our products at the health risk of our users  is just not how we do things.  Besides, then we’d have to raise the price to cover the cost of the additive.

Are there any surfaces that I should not use Oil Flo or Oil Flo 141 on?

Oil-Flo is safe on all non-petrochemically based surfaces.  You can generally use Oil-Flo on unstressed acrylic (Plexiglass), polyethylene, PVC, ABS, vinyl and other thermo-setting plastics. Also on fiberglass (harmless to gel-coat). Do not use on polycarbonate (aka Lexan) such as a tail light lens or sight glass unless they have been treated to make them solvent resistant. Do not pour Oil-Flo into plastic cups or bottles as it may dissolve them.  We offer empty bottles with solvent resistant trigger sprayers; ask your distributor for them.

I have heard that Oil-Flo 141 can dissolve cured polyurethane adhesive. Is this true?

Yes, Oil-Flo 141 can dissolve cured polyurethane adhesives.  The longer the adhesive has had to cure, the more you’ll need to agitate.  It helps to occasionally spritz the area you’re agitating with water to help move the top surface of the adhesive away so that Oil-Flo 141 can penetrate the stain and come into contact and bond with its molecules.

What types of stains are suitable for Oil Flo?

Oil-Flo is a unique water-soluble liquid that dissolves most organic stains and materials such as asphalt, tar, crude oil and refined oils. This allows a final cleanup with water. Use Oil-Flo for routine cleaning of equipment, vehicles, applicators, spreader bars, nozzles, tools, lab benches, floors, clothes dryers, clothing, etc. Oil-Flo is also ideal for fixing problems caused by overspray, tracking, disconnect spills, line breaks, tank spillover or other accidents that occur on the job site or in transporting materials.  Oil Flo can also be used to dissolve asphalt cement from aggregate for lab and field testing of asphalt concrete. No heating is required.

Use Oil-Flo on most washable surfaces, including concrete, wood, metal, stone, glass, masonry, ceramic, vinyl siding and lots more. Even on carpets and fabrics. An essential product for every contractor, equipment yard, producer or shop

Oil-Flo Dissolves:
Asphalt Rejuvenator
Asphalt Rubber
Coal Tar
Cold Process Adhesives
Crack Filler
Crude Oil
Lap Cement
Oil Stains on Concrete
Prep Seal
Road Oil
Roof and Foundation Coatings
Tack Oil
Wet Patch Roof Cement
…and lots more.

Typically you would apply Oil-Flo full strength to a dry surface. Here are some tips.
Agitate. Thick globs can be scraped with a putty knife, a nylon or Teflon scraper (used for cleaning fry pans), a body filler applicator or old credit card. In some cases, a white woven nylon scrub pad (which is non-abrasive) or fine steel wool will help scrub off the softened tar or asphalt. Be careful on vehicles or when removing sanded sealer.

Concrete. Agitate with a brass-bristle brush, widely sold as a pot scrubbing brush or a barbecue grill brush. You can also use a green woven nylon scrub pad, which is mildly abrasive.

Carpet. Spots on carpet require care in removing. First blot the stain if it is still wet. Then use Oil-Flo sparingly and rinse with water. Apply some Oil-Flo to a rag and blot it onto the sealer or oil stain; or lightly spray Oil-Flo on the stain. Do not overwet or saturate the carpet. Place a white terry cloth over the stain after applying Oil-Flo and blot heavily by stepping on the area with your heel or jumping on it. Rub from the outside of the stain toward the center or press and rotate your wrist. Do not scrub the stain and spread it. Repeat until the stain is gone. Then spray with water and blot, using a clean white terry cloth. Repeat. Use Oil-Flo sparingly and be sure you rinse all of the residue out of the carpet with water.

Rinse with water. After using Oil-Flo, you generally need to rinse with water to remove all residue. This can be done with a garden hose or a pressure washer, a rinse under a faucet, or a spray of water from a water sprayer. Sometimes a wet cloth or sponge works well. Clothes can be placed in the washing machine or pre-rinsed.

Drying. For immediate drying, use a hair dryer, a heat gun, compressed air, or wipe with a dry cloth.  Brown hazes will fade. On vinyl siding and some painted surfaces, including white cars, a brown or yellow haze may be left after spots of tar or asphalt are removed. This staining is usually a temporary discoloration from the dyes in the tar or asphalt. They usually fade in a few days when exposed to light, especially sunlight.

Oil-Flo is ideal for removing oil stains from concrete, including hydraulic oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid, etc. Also remove dried adhesives, stickers or tape residue. Degrease engines and wash basins. Remove pine tar, tree pitch, wax, crayons, chewing gum and tire marks from concrete and most washable surfaces. There are many other organic stains or substances that can be easily cleaned with Oil-Flo. In general, apply, agitate, wait and rinse with water.

Can I dilute Oil-Flo with water?

You can dilute both Oil-Flo and Oil-Flo 141 with water.  Since the properties of both products involve bonding to oxygen molecules, you don’t want to reduce the number of molecules available for this, so start by adding 10% water to your sprayer.  If this solution works well for you, try adding another 5% until you start to notice a decline in performance.  We know of some customers that routinely add 20% water, but keep in mind that they are doing work that is relatively light-duty.

You mention rinsing with water after applying Oil-Flo, why do I need to do this?

On the discussion of cleaning things, you don’t make the problem vanish, you just move it.  The unique formulation of Oil-Flo and Oil-Flo 141 provides its molecules with the power to bond to any petrochemical, then bond to the oxygen molecule present in good old H20, turning the entire mess into water, which is very easy to pick up with a mop or towel.

I’m not a distributor but am interested in purchasing your products. Can I buy directly from the manufacturer?

Titan Laboratories is a leading manufacturer, and we sell only through professional distributors.  Contact us and we’ll be glad to tell you where your nearest distributor is located. A lot of our more than 700 distributors worldwide have websites for your convenience.  If you know of a supplier that you think should carry our products, please let us know.

Why do you call Oil-Flo a “Safety” Solvent Cleaner?

Oil-Flo Safety Solvent Cleaner was designed to work efficiently and contain no hazardous ingredients.  It took over 10 years of research to uncover the secret of dissolving tar, pitch, asphalt, adhesives etc. WITHOUT the use of benzene, toulene, xylene and all other chlorinated solvents and fluorocarbons, and remain water soluble so it can be rinsed away cleanly.  Oi-Flo Safety Solvent Cleaner is safe to the user and safe to the environment and leaves behind zero residue!

Will Oil Flo Freeze?

The freezing point for Oil-Flo has never been determined.  It has been tested to be used in temperatures as low as -20 degrees (F) without any sign of thickening or freezing.

Where can I purchase your products?

Our acclaimed products can be purchased from one of over 800 professional distributors worldwide.  Contact us and we’ll refer you to the best distributor to meet your needs.


Why don’t our products smell like oranges like the others do?

The orange scent is created by adding D’Limonene, a solvent derived from citrus peels.  We don’t use D’Limonene in our products. D’Limonene is made from oranges and makes a good all around heavy duty solvent similar to turpentine. The troubles with D’limonene are that it leaves behind a residue, isn’t completely water-soluble, costs a fortune, attracts bees, and adds little if any cleaning muscle to Oil-Flo. Orange and lemon fragrant cleaners were originally marketed to housewives and that has since spilt out into larger segments of the cleaning markets. Oil-Flo needs no gimmicks or added costs to get the job done.

Will Oil-Flo remove sealant from garage doors?

Yes. Time is of the essence because the longer the sealer is on the vinyl surface, the harder it will be to remove. Looking at the surface of vinyl under a microscope, you’ll see mountain valleys and peaks. As the sealer settles further into these crevices, the harder it’ll be to get them out. Oil-Flo will attach itself to any petrochemical and then to water. Getting the Oil-Flo into the crevices and the water rinse back out can take multiple tries.

Can I use Oil-Flo to clean car finishes?

Yes. Most cars are finished with clear coat enamel, which is not a petrochemical. Work quickly and rinse with water. Work in small patches to avoid any problems with too much dwell time on the paint. Avoid Lexan as Oil-Flo will dissolve it immediately (tail light lenses). Test first; see disclaimer.

Does Oil-Flo work on coal tar?

Yes, it’s the only asphalt remover we know of that works on both asphalt grade and coal tars equally well.

What is the coverage for your Oil-Flo and Oil-Flo 141?

100 to 400 square feet per gallon, depending on conditions.

What does Earth Friendly Technologies mean?

Green certification is primarily for consumer cleaning products, with much emphasis on building materials, processes and energy. We explored Green Guard and Green Seal certification, which apply to cleaning agents. We are familiar with Scientific Certification Systems (SCS), Green Label, Ecologo, Design for the Environment, Greenstar Certified and Greenguard, among others. In a phone conversation with Green Seal, it takes 3 months, requires an elaborate request for information, and the cost will not be quoted until the application is submitted. We are environmentally oriented, including waste and energy usage in production.

We chose Earth Friendly Technology for Glass Gleam-4 because they are affordable and quick to approval. Since GG4 contains no hazardous ingredients and is biodegradable, this certification was easily obtained. It has since been reviewed and approved by leading companies including Apple Computer, IBM, Cal OSHA, the U.S. Dept. of Energy and many others.

Because the product is diluted for use at the rate of 1/4 ounce per gallon of water, this is approximately 1:500. Hence water is 499/500 of the ready-to-use mixture, or 99.8%. Has the water been certified? I hardly see where there is concern about a non-hazardous product that you are using being only 0.2% of the mixture. Generally any raw material under 1% is considered insignificant and can be ignored. But Glass Gleam-4 provides necessary features ; cleaner glass, less bleedback, less detailing time, faster production, low pleasant odor, ideal pH for the hands, longer dwell time for hot or windy days and many other features mentioned in the brochure.

The packaging was also selected to be environmentally friendly. We made GG-4 extra concentrated — as concentrated as possible — so we do not ship water, reduce usage of plastic bottles and cartons which may enter the waste stream, encourage recycling of our bottles made of HDPE plastic. The window cleaner benefits from buying a superb and acclaimed window cleaning concentrate where one gallon makes 500 gallons of RTU liquid. GG-4 is especially valuable in Oregon, where the water is hard, since it contains polymeric water softening for noticeably better results.

Does using CS-22 cause respiratory problems or headaches?

CS-22 has very low odor, but vigorously re-activates any existing glues, which may present a problem for users in an enclosed space. Adding a fan for ventilation is usually sufficient. One customer using another of our products, with greater risk of noxious inhalation, installed an exhaust hood over the work area. CS22 is quite benign compared to other cleaning agents, but the fragrance and mist should not be inhaled for lengthy periods. Even air fresheners, designed to “freshen the air” have their problems.

Here’s an excerpt from a report “10 Dangerous Everyday Things in Your Home” by Cristen Conger:

Air Fresheners and Cleaning Solutions
Air fresheners in particular are linked to many volatile organic compounds, such as nitrogen dioxide. Concentrations of this chemical are two to five times higher indoors than outdoors, which can cause cancer in some animals [source: EPA]. Some fresheners also contain paradichlorobenzene, the same chemical we discussed earlier with mothballs. Cleaning your bathroom or spritzing air freshener shouldn’t make you sick, but you must keep air circulating through the area as a precaution. Professional house cleaners should especially ensure that they aren’t breathing harmful levels of these chemicals on the job [source: ScienceDaily (May 24, 2006)].

Below are some excerpts from the MSDS for CS22:

Health hazards (acute and chronic) prolonged inhalation of vapors: nausea, drowsiness. The short term inhalation toxicity is low. skin: possible local irritation, dryness, chapping or dermatitis. Generally low risk under normal conditions of handling and use ingestion: swallowing small amounts not likely to cause harmful effects because of low oral toxicity. Large amounts may cause lung inflammation and/or damage. eyes: possible mild eye irritation.

Emergency and first aid procedures
Inhalation: remove to fresh air skin: flush with water. ingestion: rinse mouth. Do not induce vomiting. If vomiting occurs, keep head below hips to prevent aspiration to lungs. If symptoms persist, get medical help. eyes: flood gently with water while holding eyelids open. Remove contact lenses if worn. Get medical help if symptoms persist.

Respiratory protection (specify type) if concentration of vapors exceeds tlv limits, increase ventilation or use respirator. Generally not needed.


These are pretty standard warnings for any cleaning agent with low inhalation risks. For example, look at this link to the MSDS for Clorox Greenworks Naturally Derived All Purpose Cleaner. Especially Section IV, Engineering Controls, and then Personal Protective Equipment.

Every cleaning agent used for a prolonged period requires proper ventilation. A fan, an exhaust hood, increased HVAC fan running constantly, are some suggestions.

What is our your official disclaimer for your products?

Titan Laboratories disclaims all expressed or implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose, with respect to the product or information provided herein, and shall under no circumstances be liable for incidental or consequential damages. See labels and flyers for our warranty.

What is the pH of Glass Gleam 3/4 ?

Glass Gleam 3 and 4 have a neutral pH of about 7.3, very close to the pH of your skin. Sodium hypochlorite, or household bleach, at 5% NAOCl has a pH of 12.3.

Will A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover scratch glass?

A-1 Hardwater Stain Remover is a safe, non-acid thick formulation that will not scratch the glass nor run down.

There are many types of hardwater stains, and we can not be sure that one of these will work in a specific situation, even though we have had excellent reports. A-1 is worth carrying to your jobs for hardwater stain removal, not only on windows but for shower doors and surrounds. The A-1 has a useful feature, since it is non-acid, that you can use it where marble, granite, limestone, or other natural stones are used on floors or counters, which could be damaged by any acid, including lemon juice or vinegar. A-1 is safe on these materials, since it is non-acid but alkaline.

There is no assurance that this product would work, but in seminars at the IWCA they also recommend it to be used first. This product will not scratch the glass, or run the risk of “frying” the glass if stronger acids or more abrasive products were employed. There is a product using hydrofluoric acid called Crystal Clear 550 that may work where nothing else will. The tradeoff is that the HF acid could be very harmful to the user, requires care with gloves and a face shield, non-target surfaces must be protected, such as parked cars, and HF acid could also damage the glass surface if the leaded side of the float glass is being cleaned.

What is the difference between Glass Gleam 3 and 4?

Concentration levels are different. GG3 is a super concentrate and one gallon of it will produce 1200 gallons of window cleaning solution. One gallon of GG4 will produce 500 gallons of window cleaner. For GG3, recommended dosage is 1/10th ounce per gallon, where GG4 requires ¼ ounce per gallon. GG4 contains a polymeric water softener and more detergent than GG3.

What is the difference between Oil-Flo and Oil-Flo 141?

Oil-Flo was originally designed to clean oil-tankers.  In 1984, our first showing in the marketplace was demonstrating Oil-Flo to paving and roofing contractors, who loved it.  They could use Oil-Flo to clean their tools and go to work each day with like-new tools.  It’s a great product, but it’s a little too strong smelling for indoor use such as converting or flooring/carpet installation and cleaning.  We reformulated and produced Oil-Flo 141.  141°F is its flashpoint, hence the name (the cutoff point for shipping via air is 140 degrees F, so it can be shipped anywhere overnight).  It is a little less aggressive than the original Oil-Flo, has a fruity, soapy fragrance and works magic on adhesives. It’s water soluble too, so the only cleanup required is a water rinse, wipe-up, or mop.